I would appreciate your thoughts on the optimum way (including size, shape, dimensions, material, control(s) placement, etc.) to design the Operator Interface. What ideas do you have to make it User Friendly and RUGGED? Any pictures would be welcomed. Also, how are you attaching your joysticks? Thanks! :rolleyes:
The OI board is like a Reese’s cup–there’s no wrong way.
Just talk to your drivers and see what works well with them. Design it so that they know what does what at any given moment, and then make it look pimp.
As for rugged, bear in mind that FIRST makes no restriction on the use of duct tape when it comes to OI materials. I’m sure you get my drift. 
Attaching Joysticks: We’re a fan of velcro. Keep in mind that bad things happen, and sometimes you need to rip a joystick off. We had this happen when a connector on a joystick had accidnetly been dragged from the pits to the field while late for a match. We got there and realized we had a joystick with no end connector.
Materials: Lexan’s great. It looks good, its durable, and nice to mount to (drill some holes and use zip ties to hold wires in place
Shape: We’re doing a folding design this year, so we’ll bring a box to the field, unfold it on the shelf, and it lays our controls out nicely, Chasis driver on the right, arm operatior on the left.
Size: 69" x 12" are your max dimensions. 69" is huge though, we mapped out our controls saturday and we’re only using about 50" and thats with a dashboard system.
We used some 1x4" wood, with a groove ripped down the bottom to allow a piece of 1/8" lexan in to hold the OI. There was some more 1/8" lexan attached to the top with some small hinges and secured with velcro. The joysticks (3) were attached to the lexan using velcro as well. The box was also designed to split apart to give the drivers some room to breathe.
I wouldnt worry about the control panel until the robot is done and your drivers are selected. Talk to them about how they want the panel layed out, and go from there. Lexan and wood work great, but I have seen some controllers made from aluminum and diamond plate. Keep in mind you might have to lug the controller around (by hand) through the queue at the competition(s), so try to keep it light.
Also, try to keep your OI visible, and make sure you keep the competition port OPEN. You need to be able to plug the cable DIRECTLY into the competition port at the driver station.
Another good material to use is Metal (Diamond Plate) - although it has weight diamond plate looks good up against anything.
You want the Control Deck as I call it user friendly and easily maintainable as well as user accessible. Attach what you need (joysticks etc) to on any surface material make sure you leave enough slack in the wiring, the radio modem must be free at all times (can’t be tied down but velcroed to an area is ok) and it must be made rugged, Ups and Downs.
Lexan - I don’t happen to like Lexan only b/c it can get scratched and or cracked depending on its thickness. But hey where just building something to hold joysticks and wire right. I belive its lighter then wood.
Wood - Its Simple you just drill holes in a piece of plywood and use zip ties to tied down everything =) since velcro don’t particulary stick to wood that well, or you can use duck tape. =p
Metal - A thin sheet of metal ( as said b4 diamond plate) is good, you don’t have to worry about the surface scratching as much ( just a thought) and it can’t break. just about anything can be applied to metal surfaces ( tape , velcro)
An old school I worked with had 2 different types of control decks -
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Plywood, Mahagne - >>> spelling) This is used to make a simple control deck for previous years robots, All robots get re-programmed for a 2 joystick control deck. Everything for the Control Deck is Ziptied to the wood above. Total weight est 5lbs
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Alumnium , Diamond Plate and lexan - This is used for the current years robot everything gets velcroed / bolted down and is made for driver comfort. a piece of lexan covers the OI on top but allows access from all sides and wires are ziptied to some tubing welded onto the frame Total Weight est 10lbs