It gets more pronounced if your robots have higher current draws, longer wire runs, or crappier crimps–but there’s your baseline. I’d be inclined to tackle other places first (especially upping drive motors from 12 AWG to 10 AWG, which has a higher percentage effect, and shortening runs there), but if you’re sweating every bit of your battery voltage that’s one to do as well.
Yeah, I don’t know if I have more electrical knowledge than you, but it looks to me like if your robot is wired with 36 inches of red and black 4awg, and you’re drawing 240 A, it would give you access to an additional tenth of a volt at your PDP.
[240 A * (.3951-.2485 ohm) * 36 in]/(1000 ft) = .1 V
I think the reduction of waste heat is a more significant improvement.
0.1056 Volt x 240 Ampere = 25.3 Watt.
With 6 AWG, that extra wasted power is heating the cables, and that heat is flowing from the cables to their contacts; cycles of that heating, with cool-off periods between, accelerate loosening of those contacts. When contacts get too loose, they will exhibit momentary high resistance during mechanical shocks, causing brown-out. Because the contacts are hidden under insulation (tape, heat shrink, or connector housings) they don’t get inspected and their failure comes as a surprise.
With 4 AWG, that 25.3 Watt goes to the PDP as usable electric power, putting less cyclic thermal stress on contacts and allowing the robot’s electrical system to do more.
I’m not trying to start a war. I think they don’t match because I just ordered one of these for our new battery analyzer (https://powerwerx.com/anderson-sb-connectors-sb50-50amp) and it doesn’t match any of the FRC connectors on our batteries without significant modification!
Also, my question was for where you sourced the SB50 with 4 gauge lugs. Your paper does not state that you are using 6 gauge lugs. That makes a difference, look at the 4 gauge options and the price climbs.
While, I know this is a safe practice; with some of the inspectors I have ran into the last two years, justifying jamming a 4 gauge wire into a 6 gauge lug, is a battle I’m not willing to take on right now.
Interesting… I’ve only used them on studs in industrial applications, but after seeing your post and thinking about the locking mechanism it makes since to need them on both sides of a bolted connection.