This concept is a wireframe render of the wheel assembly. It shows the 90 degree switch with the chain system leading down to the wheel. As you can see, the main shaft at the top is not keyed to the large sprocket (the pivoting sprocket)
great, a coax desing
this is great, realy but…
having horizontal support for the fender closer to the Axel is needed you have all your propelling force all stressing at the top of the module the unit would only last a few rough matches, and i see a few to many bevel gears, you could take those two out and mount your motors vertical and forget Abbot that whole extra linkage
Great work in cad tho, i still don’t know how to export anything as a .JPG
Saichel,
If I understand what Tytus is trying to say, then he is right. You need more support for that huge bushing that the power shaft goes through. That 1/8 or 1/16" sheet probably won’t do the job. Of course you may have left that part out for clarity, but it isn’t in the other images either, so I suspect that is not the case.
So run the bushing through a 2"x1" rectangular tube or C-chanel that runs across the robot and you’re done. Actually you might get by with less, but the structure around the first two bevel gears needs to be stiffer. This is a local issue. The top plate is probably adequate for every where else, but the loads need to be transfered into the rest of the structure, so a cross bar is the easiest thing.
Overall, I think you have done a great job so far. What we are doing now is called a “design review”. In the “real” world it’s where a bunch of people who don’t know anything about your design come in and try and tear it apart. Usually the reviewers are people who are knowledgable about that sort of system or are customers. Usually both types are present. While it can be painful, it can also catch some pretty big mistakes or misunderstandings before they get expensive.
*Originally posted by Tytus Gerrish *
**Great work in cad tho, i still don’t know how to export anything as a .JPG **
You can always take a screen capture by pressing Alt and Print Scrn on your keyboard at the same time. Then, open up Microsoft Paint (under accessories in the Start menu) and paste it into there. I don’t believe you can paste it into anything except Paint, but you can always copy it out of Paint and then paste it into something like Photoshop.
Hey thanks for the feedback guys!
I’m glad to hear some discussion about support going round!
I’m working on several different ideas for transferring the force around, I’ll post some of them later. But for now, This should do OK.
The Bearing Block at the top of the wheel module is about 3x3" with a 5/8" shaft in the center. I hadn’t thought of the idea of laying the motors vertically, that’s a good one tytus.
I’m afraid that some of the (mentors!) on my team are already coming up with ways to “Shoot down” my idea, and I haven’t even gotten it fully out yet!
I really wanted to stray away from beveled bears as much as possible. I think that if I try Tytus’ idea, mounting the motors vertically, that should remove the top set on each wheel assembly.
I’m still iffy about using miter gears. BTW, do these look like they should work ok for this system:
Go to MSCdirect.com and enter
36682789
in the search bar, and select MSC Part # for the search terms.
These are the best I could find so far, with the price listed.
Anyway, I guess I’ll start drafting up v3.0!
Thanks for the feedback guys, it really helps!
Well within 30 minutes I’ve refined my design to meet the suggestions posted here.
I’m posting the preview pic now.
Note that the main thread for discussing this design can be found here:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=22696
Thanks!
*Originally posted by CD47-Bot *
**Thread created automatically to discuss this image in the Picture Gallery.http://www.chiefdelphi.com/pics/bin/1068781876anacrab06.jpg](http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/pictures.php?s=&action=single&picid=5771) **
Was this picture done in auto-desk inventor, the color used (plastic blue) if I am not mistaken is from Auto-desk inventor.
Nice Design.
-Greg The Great
No, this was concept modeled in Anim8or (you can get it 100% free from Anim8or.com), it’s a free 3D modeling tool. The Rd/Blue is actually 3D encoding I did after I processed 2 images. If you have red/blue 3d glasses, you can view it in 3D. You’ll notice all my other concept pics have red/blue outlines as well.
The next pic I’m uploading works really well, look for Multi Drive v.3
in the Misc Section.
You can actually download the models of the drive system in the white papers section.
*Originally posted by Sachiel7 *
**No, this was concept modeled in Anim8or (you can get it 100% free from Anim8or.com), it’s a free 3D modeling tool. The Rd/Blue is actually 3D encoding I did after I processed 2 images. If you have red/blue 3d glasses, you can view it in 3D. You’ll notice all my other concept pics have red/blue outlines as well.
The next pic I’m uploading works really well, look for Multi Drive v.3
in the Misc Section.
You can actually download the models of the drive system in the white papers section. **
Can such images be uploaded into 3Ds Max?
-Greg The Great
Yes, the models are in 3DS form, but they aren’t very great in detail. I would recommend Anim8or or another 3DS viewer, if you just wanted to view them.
As for the 3D encoding, I’ll bite:
3D Anaglyph Encoding in a Nutshell:
From within your 3D program, you’ll want to render 2 images:
Left and Right.
Make sure you are in a view that has perspective to it, or the 3D effect will not show quite right.
Render one picture normally. Then restrict your panning to the X axis. Pan to the left a little bit (<That’s very important. The more you pan, the more depth is added. With practice, you’ll get used to the right shift-per-depth)
Now render your left image.
Now use This Program:
http://www.stereoeye.jp/software/index_e.html
Just import your Left/Right images into the program, and select Color Anaglyph on the left bar.
You may want to pan the image around to correct the depth. It’s best to do this while wearing 3D glasses to preview the results.
Then, just save your Pic and Viola! 3D Picture
I also have another program for taking video streams and encoding them into 3D. There are also other options than anaglyph, but it’s the most common (and cheapest) and you can view an anaglyph image w/o glasses like normal.
Anyway, hope that got some juices flowing…
*Originally posted by Sachiel7 *
**Yes, the models are in 3DS form, but they aren’t very great in detail. I would recommend Anim8or or another 3DS viewer, if you just wanted to view them.
As for the 3D encoding, I’ll bite:
3D Anaglyph Encoding in a Nutshell:
From within your 3D program, you’ll want to render 2 images:
Left and Right.
Make sure you are in a view that has perspective to it, or the 3D effect will not show quite right.
Render one picture normally. Then restrict your panning to the X axis. Pan to the left a little bit (<That’s very important. The more you pan, the more depth is added. With practice, you’ll get used to the right shift-per-depth)
Now render your left image.
Now use This Program:3D Software: Anaglyph Maker by Takashi Sekitani
Just import your Left/Right images into the program, and select Color Anaglyph on the left bar.
You may want to pan the image around to correct the depth. It’s best to do this while wearing 3D glasses to preview the results.
Then, just save your Pic and Viola! 3D PictureI also have another program for taking video streams and encoding them into 3D. There are also other options than anaglyph, but it’s the most common (and cheapest) and you can view an anaglyph image w/o glasses like normal.
Anyway, hope that got some juices flowing… **
Now I think I am going to have to play around with that program.
Great, yet another thing to add to my to-do pile…
The question is 3d Rendering of Chemistry and Algebra. Which one sounds funner (my English teacher would be mad) to you? lol.
-Greg the Great
The newest pic is here:
http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/pictures.php?s=&action=single&picid=5773
I am curious as to why you have the drive chain running from the motors in the back to the front wheels and then from the front wheels to the back wheels?
why not just have the back motors connected to the back wheels and then to the front?
you would save a lot of weight and chain!
Well, I tried to frame the chain gearing from this past year’s bot. The idea was to have all the pieces accessible so if our crab drive got mauled we could (in between a match) convert it to something 90% similar to this past year’s skid steer system. You’ll notice the small sprocket on the motor going to the 45t sprocket, and the 10t to 10t from the base. The second gearing is done at the wheel assembly level. The small drive sprocket at the top axle goes to a 40t drive sprocket on the wheel.
Anyway, the design has kept with this for our emergency backup plan. It’s always a good idea to have an exit…