pic: Looking for Info/Parts

the one on the far left looks like a drill motor and gearbox from 2004

Hi all!

I’m designing a 30 lb. combat robot and I’m planing on using some old FIRST KoP parts.

Unfortunately, we’ve lost some of the parts over the years and nobody on my team knows anything about these motors.

All of these parts are from the 2004 and earlier KoP’s. So I was wondering if any of you could possibly help me out?

  1. I need to know the name of the motor on the far right (so I can find its specs). It is about 2.5" long and 1.75" in dia. Definitley not the FP motor I’m aquainted with.

  2. I need the top two mounting brackets for the Bosch Drill motors. Did these come in the KoP? Can I buy them online anywhere?

  3. I’m missing the top part of the gearhead to the motor in the middle. I know these motors/gearboxes are Bosch, but what model exactly?

Any help would be much appreciated! Furthermore, if anybody is willing to donate the parts or make a trade please PM me. The assistance of any Bay Area teams would be very generous!

CD ate my description :mad:

Yeah the center & left ones look like the Bosch Drill motors (left has the transmission) from 2004 or earlier. As for info here is a link to a white paper on the locking the transmissions in low gear. http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/1429

The motor on the right is a drill motor circa 2002 and prior. I don’t remember what brand it is. Someone else with a better memory than me probably could tell you.

The brackets came from the 2003-2004 KOP. They’re very poor as far as motor mounts go. They were notorious for cracking.

K, then they’re not going on my robot :slight_smile: Thanks for the help!

How durable were the gearboxes themselves? I know a lot of robots use drill motors, so I thought these would be a free alternative.

This place has had the old Bosch drill motors/gearboxes/mounts for sale for a long time now. $39 per setup. They also have some other stuff from the old Kits of Parts including old window motors, Skyway wheels, old Fisher-Price motors&gearboxes, and gold maxi-fuse blocks. They are located in Manchester, NH so I guess that explains how they got them from FIRST. I guess the good old days of the FIRST summer garage sales are over. They now sell the leftovers to some company to sell.

If you mount them rigidly and your shafts are aligned well (or you use something like that lovejoy flex coupling as can be seen on the 2002 drill motor) you should be fine.

Most problems that I’m aware of were due to poor mounting methods.

some thing you can do that a couple of team i saw at roboolympics/combots
they used the cheep drill motors from harbor freight
and alternative look at team whachi

alot of teams use those the down side is there a little expensive

The Bosch motors also draw a lot of current under load and ran very hot. I don’t have first hand experience with them, but team members remarked about these motors tripping the old KOP main breakers and having to cool the motors off after a match with canned air. On a 30# battlebot you might not have the same issues, but if your bot design is primarily for pushing, like a wedge bot, you could see the same heat issues.

The motor on the right also predates my FIRST experience, but the planetary gearbox looks a lot like a Ryobi used in their older 12V cordless two speed models.

As you know already, the two on the left are Bosch drill motors, 117 amps at stall. They don’t like to be run at low speed with high load which got many teams into trouble with over temp. The motor on the right looks like a FP from about that time but is too small. However, the transmission looks like the guts to an electric screwdriver, so it is possible someone dissassembled the screwdriver and left it in your storage.
I have the motor sheet for the Bosch drills if you would like. Just PM me.

The motor on the right is the Bosch 3/8" cordless drill motor and transmission from 2001-2002.

Ditto on the cracking- also be aware that the plastic housing for the old drill gear boxes typically would crack after a while and the gears would fail or fall out. The tiny tabs on the housing and face plate are a weak spot. It is vital to support them perfectly and allow no torque on the housing. You might put them into a drill housing and support the whole thing.

Unlike CIMS the drill motors had issues- I’d go with CIMs instead if possible

keep the motor on the right, throw the two on the left away


good luck

As people above have said the two on the left are the part DC980KA drill motors they did have a tendency to overheat and the leads on the back of the motor would heat up and unsoder themselves. If you were not carefull the brushes on the motor are exposed and extremly fragile.

THe lower motor is a 2000 - 2002 transmission 3/8 dewalt it has been retrofitted to stop the clutch plates from slipping and it also has Dr. Joe Johnson’s Shaft in it.

Here are the links on how to retrofit a new one as well as the specs on them both.




MY 2cents run away!! the cim’s are more powerfull and more reliable. if they are to heavy consider a NBD transmission with the fisher price motor.


Good Luck

You are right, that is the drill motor from the smaller drill. I found the specs in the 2000 robot manual if you need them. Stall at 114 amps, similar problem with the need to keep speed up to cool the motor. The locking/anti-back drive pawls in the transmission produce serious problems for the housing if not removed.

I just took one off an old robot. Motor, gears and braket. If you were not so far away I would trade with you. All I have is the dimesions document http://www.team1322.org/documents.htm

Hmmm… for a 30 lb with low funds is somewhat of a dillemna.

Poor quality parts will break, and you will be frustrated and wish you had just done it right in the first place.

I’ve never built a 30, but I think two small CIMs would be a decent power source (although, compared to more expensive motors they have a poor power to weight ratio).

Its not that I have low funds. Its that I don’t want to spend a lot of funds. I’d hate to buy some of the whyachi products and have my bot get trashed - thereby wasting my money.

If I remain conservative, and my robot is destroyed, then I won’t be losing very much - capisci?

CIMs seem like they might be a reasonable alternative. If I use the NBDs approach I might be able to keep the weight down.

Thanks everyone!

go with banebots, you wont be disappointed. When Greg Needel and I designed his 30, we used 4 on it for the drive, and man it was powerful!