If this were to be constructed it would function to my knowledge at least. There are there still some things that need to be added. I would like to make it more compact, add mounting points, etc. Does anyone have any idea how this could be condensed? I am trying the West Coast Products style of enclosure but it seems too open and asking for a finger to get caught. Any ideas? Thanks for supporting my project.
You could do something like 192 did with their gearbox to keep the finger hazard lower. However, that would imply that you have enough meat on the gearbox side plates to drill and tap a hole to bolt on some thin sheet aluminum to cover the exposed gears.
I could do that, it is all 1/4 plate alum. Thank you
Will you be posting a .step of this? Could be easier to give feedback that way.
One thing I notice about the design is that it appears that it would require you to take the entire thing apart just to replace the motors. Maybe something to think about in future revisions.
hahaha i like your picture
Here is the STEP file 
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7jEnc-gvsaxZ2Nya0lZMkFHa3c/edit?usp=sharing
Thank you for your interest and help
If the plates are getting milled (As opposed to waterjet or laser cut), you could also leave 1/16" or so of metal in the bottom of all the pockets. It won’t weigh much, but will keep fingers out.
Totally awesome design by the way. I have a feeling my FTC team will be making something similar for next year.
Awesome gearbox so far!
I just opened up the step file. Your construction technique is similar to 192’s gearbox from 2012, but you currently don’t have any hard connections. If you look at theirs (though I’m no expert on it, I’ve just seen pictures) they still have some bolted connections. While it looks like you’re going for a press fit, having some hard connections would be wise. Reliability and durability is key on gearboxes, especially your drive. The last thing you want is one of those plates falling off.
Also, as far as condensing it goes, you could cut down the shafts on the CIMs, which would allow you to pull everything in some more.
One last thing, as far as face-mounting goes, the sides extend some distance past the front. It’s not a big deal, but it may annoy you a bit if you want to face-mount these.
Other than that, great work. Can’t wait to see where this goes!
Sadly this will be water jetted so that is not an option I will probably put some black tinted Polycarbonate riveted to the box to keep fingers out while still being able to see inside.
You are completely right I forgot about the standoffs and bolted connections (duh) I really meant to add those just slipped my mind. I forgot to mention I messed with the gear ratios a bit and I am planning on adding a third to put the ratio back where it was on the ball shiftier normally.
Is it possible to put both motors on one side so that you can reduce the overall width? Make one motor horiz and the other under it on an angle - same site.
If you feel like driving 450 miles to SVR next week I can try to have a 2012 gear box there. Let me know by Monday and I will arrange it. This years is even nicer.
I don’t know if OP will be coming, but I’d sure love to see one of your 2012 gearboxes. It’s one of the coolest gearboxes I’ve ever seen.
I’ve run into a myriad of different issues while attempting to design my own worm drive, so seeing how you guys were able to accomplish it would be amazing!
Yeah seems like quite a distance but thank you for the offer. As for the issue with width I am willing for it to be that wide for the soul purpose that it is very easy to fit into a drive base. This will take up probably more space than the original Ball shifter gearbox but it is much less awkward.
What’s your source and spec on the bevel gears?
I got them from here (http://www.qtcgears.com/KHK/newgears/KHK228_2.html) the CIM bevel gears are a bored out and key way broached “Pinion Shaft” as called on the website and the larger bevel gear is drilled out and broached to a 1/2" hex, so some modification will be needed but nothing beyond the range of a FIRST team with decent manufacturing capabilities.
The plates on our 2012 drive gearbox were all press fit together, however we did have 2 bolts running through the gearbox to clamp it shut incase the presses ever came loose.
I’ll be bringing our 2012, 2013 and 2014 gearboxes to SVR 
If you need any help with your worm drive gearbox I’m sure Joey Milia would love to help.
That’s so awesome! Thank you so much!
Can’t wait to stop by 192’s pit.
Okay here comes V3, some of the bearing holes became overly sized for some reason and they will be an easy fix but I want to go to bed lol. I also need to add a 3:1 third stage to correct the ratios because as of right now they are way too high. It also now mounts to the KOP frame through 4 tapped holes on the face that line up with the toughbox mounting holes. Let me know what you think.
STEP: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7jEnc-gvsaxa0FXY3RrTm12YlU/edit?usp=sharing
Picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7jEnc-gvsaxQ2VsUC00bHpBcU0/edit?usp=sharing
V3 is looking good!
A few things though:
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To make facemounting easier, I would go one of a few routes: Put the four bolts holding it together in through the back and tap the front plate (this would give you a flush, flat front) or I would use countersunk bolts on the front instead. The other option is to just have holes for the bolt heads to fit through on the spot you’re mounting this. Generally, your mount will be a lot more snug and reliable if the face is right up against the surface you are mounting it to.
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You probably already know this, but just to remind you, you’re going to need another spot for a bearing on the front plate if you intend to add a third stage.
This is a beautiful, elegant gear box. Awesome job on it!