Specs:
I really like the use of tubing to mount the ballshifter, very clever.
Thanks. I basically got rid of the plate and standoffs that come with the 3rd stage kit and made the output shaft and gear part of the drive rail. The gearbox then bolts on. I had reservations about putting 3 bearings on the same shaft, but since it’s bolt tolerances holding the 3rd one on, I’m fairly comfortable with it.
Thanks. I basically got rid of the plate and standoffs that come with the 3rd stage kit and made the output shaft and gear part of the drive rail. The gearbox then bolts on. I had reservations about putting 3 bearings on the same shaft, but since it’s bolt tolerances holding the 3rd one on, I’m fairly comfortable with it.
Here’s a pic with one gearbox removed.
Brilliant. This is the current weakness in our chain in tube design using the ball shifters. Consider this stolen :cough: I mean borrowed.
[strike]Send me a PM if you’d like the CAD model.[/strike]
EDIT: Link below.
Very nice Ty!
You mention reducing the diameter of the outer wheels, have you considered increasing the diameter of the middle wheel?
I’m thinking that versawheels with blue nitrile might have a large enough OD to give a decent amount of rock with 4" Colson wheels on the outside.
Alternatively, you could use 4" wheels on the back and middle and a 3.5" wheel on the front. That gives you the same amount of rock as a 1/8" center drop.
Edit: You can also use a vex 16 tooth sprocket on the 3.5" wheel down from the 17 tooth sprocket on the 4" wheels to try to get the surface speeds of the wheels more closely matched. This should reduce wheel wear.
There’s definitely a lot you can do with the wheels, I’m just a huge fan of the durability of Colson wheels and we have a lathe handy right in our workshop.
(https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5nS2Ay4cThNSFVTQXM2U1FBWk0/view?usp=sharing)
Thanks for the CAD, looks pretty darn simple and bulletproof.
As far as colsons, Vexpro has 4", 3.5", and 3" Colsons. If we build something like your design I think we will use 1/2" smaller dia front wheels, whether we use 4" or 3.5" wheels for the rest.
How are you going to attach the two vertical pieces of tubing to the horizontal frame tube on each side? It looks like there is not a lot of surface area and any fasteners that protrude into the frame tube may interfere with the chain and/or sprocket.
What’s the reason for the slots in the tube that mount the gearbox?
Probably to not overconstrain things.
You want the gearbox position to be driven by the third bearing in the plastic housing piloting onto the shaft captured in the tube. This sets the appropriate gear spacing and prevents misalignment of any the bearings or the shaft. Then the bolts just clamp everything in place wherever it ended up.
I also really like the boxtube standoffs. I’d played around with this same idea, but still using a version of Vex’s third stage plate, requiring more pieces and more disassembly to get the gearbox away from the final gear. The boxtube cleans this up a lot.
Really nice job Ty…thank you for posting your model. I think this design concept will start to become more popular in the near future.
We have a TIG welder in our shop, so they’ll be welded in place. If you don’t have access to a welder, basically any motorcycle shop near you will have one and you could work with them for a sponsorship.
Mostly to not over constrain things as stated above. Secondarily to make it so that I don’t have to keep track of left and right versions of the tubes since putting a hole in the middle of the tube would cause the tube to interfere with the gear on the rail.
Nice! Do you have a cutaway of the inside of the tube-in-chain? I’m not quite sure what the inside would look like. How do you assemble this? are there access slots/holes to access the chain?
Call this a stupid question but how do you assemble the chains and sprockets inside the tubing.
Very carefully.
What we have is a piece of hex shaft that is cut to the width of the sprocket(s). Then loop the chain around the sprockets, and drop that into the tube. Last push the axles through the sprockets when they are in place and slide the bearings over the axles.
If you’re using the 17t sprockets from 221, a wheel c-c distance that’s divisible by .25 won’t work without using a half link, which gave us problems. The distance should be something like 11.625 where if you divide it by .25 the remainder is .125.
Thanks. I’ve gotten rid of the incorrect information.
