pic: SPARK

We were thinking if the spark was similar programming as the talon, and talonSR

Now when robot parts will be in Lowe’s/Home Depot/Menards Stores nation-wide :stuck_out_tongue: Would make it easier to fix stuff during outreach events if it breaks :stuck_out_tongue: (hey, those handy HVAC duct clips worked magic for a temporary fix for a weld that came undone in the middle of a day-long outreach event :smiley:

I do not see any where in that document where they talk about temperatures of the various controllers. However I’m also unaware of any controllers currently on the market that will overheat when utilized correctly.

That is a concern for the new mindsensors controller. The graphs they released were…let’s say warranting further investigation. I have yet to see third party results on how well they work and whether we should be concerned about overheating, especially with the Rev B version being released so recently.

Programming the SPARK is identical to the talon and talon SR.

plz help we bought 2 sparks and there unresponsive and wildly sending low voltage plz help its causing alot of problems it would be greatly appreciated

Have you contacted anyone? I think calling whomever you bought the motors from and informing them of the difficulties you’re currently having would be a good idea. If you’ve already done that, might I ask what you’ve done so far with the motors? Are you stressing them?

Hi Jarrett,
I sent this to you in an email also, but if you could tell us a bit more information we will be able to help figure out the problem.

  • What programming language are you using?
  • Are you using the included PWM cables, or other ones that your team had previously?
  • Have you tried calibrating the controllers or doing a reset?
  • Does the issue happen as soon as the power is turned on or only after the robot is enabled in the driver’s station?

Please also check that power and motor connections. If motor and power connections were swapped, motors could spin uncontrollably regardless of the robot state.

If you send us a photo of your electronics setup, it might be easier to diagnosis the problem. Also if you would prefer, we can talk you through it over the phone.
You can reply to the email I sent you or send me a private message here on Chiefdelphi.



The fact that you have two Sparks exhibiting this behavior makes me suspicious that something else could be in the mix. Does it exhibit this same behavior with another speed controller? If a Victor/Talon/Jaguar/etc exhibits the same behavior wired the same way, then definitely email REV.

It’s possible that a couple duds escaped any testing they’re doing, but for a team to go 0 for 2 on semi-random pulls (we’ll assume there’s a degree of randomness with Amazon’s fulfillment network that picked and packed your Sparks) would surprise me.

(Full disclosure: REV donated four Sparks and a Digit board to Team Cockamamie’s Robot in 3 Days build this year, and Greg and I have known each other for some time. I’d say the same thing about any brand of speed controller, though.)

If I were going to venture a guess based on the limited information in the initial post, I’d say they have their PWM wire or their power wires plugged in backwards. My only complaint about the spark was that the white molded “B” to signify the black wire on the PWM connection didn’t jump out at me when I was looking for it. I had the same complaint on the old victors too.

I was just happy the b existed at all.

Finding that “B” with a flashlight is often easier than remembering where you put the doc. Looking inside the lid of the package also works, if you kept that.

That B was an unfortunate outcome of not being able to do everything you want when building a product. When I was doing the finishing spec of the SPARK (the drawing that shows the engravings & PAD prints) the original plan was to pad-print all of the raised letters black (including the B). The issue we ran into was registration since the raised letters were already in the mold.

We then had to make a decision, either not paint the letters, or modify the mold to get rid of them completely so we could just print int their places. All of this was happening when the electronics were already in production. So for this first run of the products we decided to go with what you all see. Keeping the raised letters and adding the black arrow M+ padprint. I was worried about the ink rubbing off overtime and the SPARKs losing all of their markings.

Here is a tip. Take the edge of a sharpie and gently rub it on the top of the letters and then let it dry. The letters will POP off the SPARK and they will be easier to read. When we move forward for our next production run of these (probably for next season) I am going to take another look at this to see if we can make it better.