pic: Team 100 Summer 2K13 Teaser #2.0*10^0



We’re less than 36 hours away from starting to manufacture our 2013 offseason robot! Parts are starting to come in, and the CAD’s nearing completion. I’m really excited about this design, I can’t wait to press “export to reality” on Saturday. I’ve been putting in some late nights getting the design ready, this is what my bed looked like at midnight last night.

I’m also excited to say that we’ll be competing at more offseasons that usual, in order to train new drivers and let the old ones have a few more spins on the field. In addition to the perennial CalGames, we’ll be competing at Powerhouse Pwnage, and possibly Madtown Throwdown too.

Again, guesses and other comments are welcome.

(Our teaser numbers have gotten too high to use normal numbers, necessitating a change to scientific notation.)

Well, there appears to be a pull up bar going across the drive, so it looks like your new design is gonna work out. /cornyjoke/

Can’t wait to see the final product! A bit jealous you guys get to start manufacturing before we do. :rolleyes:

That’s the “magic” polyurethane roller from McMaster, seen on such things as 254’s 2010 and 2013 rollers, 1114’s 2010 roller, 1477 and 842’s 2011 claws… It’s expensive, but incredibly sticky stuff that you can just shove onto a shaft and be done with. If only I remembered the part number…

Anyhow, looks like you have some kind of under the bumper intake and frisbee managment system.

Yep, that’s the stuff. It’s a super cool material, it’s almost like it was designed just for FRC. I highly recommend checking it out.

It’s an intake, but not an under the bumper one. The 2 mini-CIMs are there for “moar powah” (as Jeremy from Top Gear would say it). Getting 4 mini-CIMs and 6 CIMs this year is almost like cheating…

What is the part number of this magical stuff?

I’ll PM you.

What durometer did you end up getting?

40 Shore A. We figured the softest stuff would work the best, and it did. We’ll probably end up cleaning it off with Acetone in competition to keep it clean. Keep in mind, the 40A stuff is only for a few 6" and 36" pieces, so make sure to get the right ones. I don’t think 80A would work very well, it would be too hard.

Craig,

It is nothing extremely special, and any of the teams who use it would direct you to the part number if you asked them anyway.

Search for “polyurethane tubing” and then select “tubes for fabrication”

This might help… http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-polyurethane-hollow-tubing/=nwjsy3

See this and this. Do not use acetone, denatured alcohol, isopropyl, or MEK on polyurethane. We found in competition that these solvents make polyurethane slightly less grippy when applied multiple times, and also much more liable to tearing. We switched to just cleaning our rollers with a wet (with water) towel, and it worked fine. I recommend you do the same.

We use simple green and the results have been pretty awesome.

-RC

Slight correction on 842’s claw from that year: we used a material called egrips. Works great for claw type mechanisms, but gets chewed up pretty quickly if you use it for a roller type of intake mechanism. Pricy, too.