Are those 3d printed gearboxes on your drive?
Looks like a ground gear intake
Connecting links for #350 chain?
I think you mean swank.
Hmmm… new lightweight turret side plates because you added a ground gear intake and need weight?
Judging by the build pattern and the color, I’m gonna guess those were made on a Stratasys machine… That’s definitely their Ivory ABS.
I see printed gearboxes, and these look like bearing holders.
You’re going to break them at the interior corner of that L portion though, due to the interlayer adhesion. Printing these on their sides would strengthen the bearing holes AND the bracket portion.
At the cost of more soluble support material, these were printed in such a way that the layers weren’t parallel or perpendicular to any specific face of the part. Below is how the part was oriented in the slicer before it was printed:
This should leverage the strength of the filament to support the part however it may be loaded in this specific application.
In any case, spares will be packed with the robot for our offseason event(s)
Huh, that’s interesting. I’d spent the last 10 minutes poring over the image trying to figure out what orientation it was printed in. That explains why I couldn’t figure it out.
I’ve used non-orthogonal orientations before with good results, but are you doing anything to improve the fit for the bearing? I probably would have printed this piece with the axes of the bearing holes perpendicular to the build plate so that the inside of the bearing holes were as smooth and accurate as possible. But I imagine a quick run of the reamer or some loctite would solve any potential issues.
Surprisingly enough, the bearing holes came out reasonably smooth and circular, just a slight burr where the print head picked up and moved to another part of the layer. Our uPrintSE does some high quality prints at any orientation thanks to the soluble support material.
For other parts, we typically print with the axis of the bearing bores perpendicular to the build platform, but for this specific part, that was not the most ideal option for strength concerns.
I’m not surprised the bearing holes were nice and smooth. As long as the nozzle is within ~300in^3 of calibration, it should be extremely close to spec. You’ll start to get some layer lift and weird cooling if you shock-cool the part, but a heated part bath usually stops that from occurring.
Can you tell I work in Additive MFG?