Hello everyone and thanks for the continued responses!
I will try to answer some of the questions mention.
This drive base is an off season design project more for my continued learning experience in CAD.
I am aware of many of the issues presented in the design and do really appreciate the comments.
Not knowing the game, much of the design is mute until then. What if we need to pick up off the ground? Much will need to be moved…
That being said I will address some of the previous comments.
The pneumatic cylinders will be the lighter plastic ones, the aluminum ones were the ones I had in my CAD library at the time. Though I do remember hearing of some of the plastic ones rupturing… Yikes!
I haven’t had the time to make the tubing, though I doubt the tanks will be there when we get to actually building.
I really wanted to go with the WCP transmissions but since they were not shipping until the middle of January that is far too late for us. We have enough delays and extra costs getting anything to Hawaii.
Wheel size has yet to be determined. One of the coaches felt that 6” was the way to go.
Putting the cart in from of the horse if you ask me.
I do know that we did order the 2 speed ball shift transmission with the 3 stage option, as well as many of the various gears and sprockets. We should be able to use the math/charts and select the best gear and wheels for the robot accordingly. Thanks for letting me know a general target speed to shoot for, that helps.
There are a lot of motorcycles, mopeds and bicycles on the island, a great way to get around here in the sunny Kona days. Which means lots of the #25 chain available.
The Talons are laid out such that the input wires are all facing back towards the PD board and routed by the sidecar. This faces the output terminals towards the motors with no obstructions.
The router will not be in the pan. It was there just so the design could drive, if built, which it hasn’t been.
Our stock metal order is still on the boat. :ahh:
We normally mount the router as high and unobstructed as possible. The last few years it has been up on the tool support structure.
We have not developed the bumper system yet. Research is being done by the students on a better way of mounting. The last few we have used C channel and bolts. Not the fastest to swap but very rugged. We want to address that this year and hope the new frame design will help. I saw a lot of great bumper mount ideas at Worlds this year that I would like to try.
Some additional room will be added between the bumper and wheels just in case, per the suggestion.
The frame uses end caps with chain tensioners. These caps are able to bolt to each other at right angles for the outer frame. Once the cap is installed on the drive rails the side caps are bolted to them and the cross rails are slid on and then bolted to them. We will more than likely weld the center cross beams.
I would like to move the battery, perhaps have it lay down. The students built a real neat battery box that has been cut out with Hawaiian designs (turtles and sea grasses) and looks really great. I was trying to reuse it. Perhaps when I get back to the school I will post a photo of it. They are very proud of it and rightly should be, it’s awesome!
I really do appreciate all the comments, please keep them coming…
Good luck this year to everyone… It is going to be an exciting new season!