please review - maybe you can improve on it so we can print faster or maybe it helps you. We are currently printing 6 at a time in about 5 - 5:30 on our Chiron and have people with a .4 nozzle with print times of 1:50 ea
Looks pretty good, I haven’t printed any of the Prusa shields yet but I’ve fiddled with it in the slicer and looks like I’ll be able to print 1/hr on my Ender 3. I’ve seen some groups say to print them without the bottom piece which also saves some time.
4096 has printed about 60 Prusa frames so far and have delivered 16. Are you able to find PETG for the shield itself? I bought 10 sheets of 0.030 last week and all the places I have checked are now out of stock. 0.020 from US Plastics went on back order last Tuesday which is why we switched to 0.030. It takes some work to get the 0.030 on the frame.
My work has been sourcing 6 mil stuff from Amazon. I worked out a trick using 12x12 sheets that lets you form some of the excess over the top into a splatter visor. Shipping times are all around a week, and you have to make sure to get the completely transparent and not slightly opaque stuff.
IDK. We (team 1989) are “hired” to do the 3DP 3142 does most of the assembly and a little printing and Thor Labs which sponsors both has/is supplying th shields. So we atm only focus on printing and getting the Filament. And we are mostly using HIPS
I think at this point you can use anything that is transparent and most of the time they are being cleaned with alcohol wipes and PC will survive that. Theoretically (have not tried it ) a 2 or 3 Liter soda bottle might provide enough clear PETG for that
I haven’t had much success finding shield material which is mostly why I haven’t been making a bunch of frames. Seems the bottleneck is the shield itself at the moment
Thanks all. I ordered a few sheets of the stuff from Amazon. We are trying out Clear PVC sheet see if it is an acceptable alternative. https://www.mcmaster.com/87875k17
It isn’t quite as clear as PETG and doesn’t have protective film. It is easy enough to cut the mounting holes on a CNC but the rest has to be cut by hand, which isn’t too bad because you can use household scissors.
I was wondering if you had Cura settings for this print using the Chiron? I have a Chiron and first slice in Cura with default shows 5 hours to print 1 frame. .4 nozzle, layer height .2 wall thickness .4, infill 25%,print speed 50mms.
We’ve printed close to 2,500 of these in my District. Currently using these settings on the Utlimaker S5. Not sure how well these settings will translate to other printers though.
UMS5 (3) Top Frame Tough PLA 7 hrs 4 min 0.2 1.2 3 10 109 Triangles 150 mm/s No none
We dont use cura but the ones that print with a .4 use these setings
2 walls
Wall thickness .8
layer height .3
2 walls
5% infill
On most printers you can print a wall thickness up to 200-250% nozzle diameter and if you got the flow right then you can go up to 75% nozzle diameter. You might have to up the temp by 10 deg to do that. The geometry of this part is 2.4mm at the thinnest part the infill is just there to connect the 2 1.6mm walls you get at some point print with 3 or 4 floors and roofs and the part will be plenty strong. and you will cut printing time in less than 1/2 with the .8 nozzle we print 1.2mm walls 1 wall. In the meanwhile we have stopped printing these and either print the swedish ones or the prusa 3 hole ones as those print even faster depending what the hospital wants. Mostly the swedish ones where we have an extended version we print this in less than 45 min. The Chiron does 4 in about 90 min. When we go to the hospital and say you can have 1 of those ore 4 of those in the same time they always go for 4 of those. You can get it all on our grabcad
The one everyone likes is called VN_M1E you can also download the ipt and remove our name if you want and put yours on
A prusa next to the swedish ones the swedish one uses and overhead projector clear transparancy with a 3 hole punch to make the 3 holes The swedish one also does not need a rubber band to stay on your head unless you print it out of something very flexi or have an extremly small head