Printing with NylonX

Good Morning CD

I know I’ve read across several threads about teams that use NylonX with great success for various parts of their robot. Our team was recently donated a fairly high end 3D printer (Fusion3 F410) and we are working with NylonX for the first time. We have had some success printing some small surface area parts without much warping, but recently we tried printing some larger plate parts and we have had a ton of trouble with it warping. We are using several layers of glue-stick on the glass plate for each print, but no matter what…the print starts warping/coming off the bed around the edges after the 4th layer.

What tips/tricks do those of you who use NylonX have for having success printing your parts cleanly?


Hey John!

Fusion3 is actually a local company to us and we’ve got one of their first F400 printers and have been using it for a while. I can’t speak to the specific issue of warping with NylonX but you should take the Fusion3 Webinar if you haven’t and also reach out to them for support as it’s top notch and for the life of the printer. Good people and they might be able to help with the specific warping issue.

Nylons warp - (not just Nylonx) here are some things you can do

1.) Increase bed temp Nylon can take pretty high temperatures (up to about 150C) without damage or melting so upping the temp to 90/100C range or 110 often helps
2.) Enclose the print to keep the ambient temp high. Warping is caused by the part cooling unevenly. Upping the ambient temp to as little as 40C can do a lot (50 is even better.) It can be as simple as draping a plastic sheet over it I got one draped over my printer and print-dry and get close to 50C try to keep the electronics out of it - that also helps with ABS, PLA, HIPS, PETG etc.
3.) Make sure the Nylonx is dry. If you see any steam coming off the nozzle or hear any crackling or see small zits on the print then its wet. Nylon can get wet in 30 minutes sitting in a room with decent humidity. I run Nylon directly from the print dry and have it in the print-dry (a converted food dehydrator) for at least 12 hours prior to printing even if it was vacuum seeled when it came from the manufacturere/reseller
4.) The best surface to print Nylon on is garolite - see if you can get a garolite surface plate for your printer.
5.) use gluestick it improves adhesion on any surface.
6.) use big brims and make sure the first layer is really squished into the build plate (decrease your z-offset, increase your first layer thickness to 80% nozzle diameter and increase flow for the first layer. You also might up the temp 10-20C for the first layer.
7.) DO NOT USE A FAN. Make sure your fan is turned off. Nylon curls and warps if the fan is on. And after all Nylonx is Nylon with some carbon fiber particles mixed into it.



This is a huge issue, and probably a big component of your print failures. One of our students is working on a drybox and full setup specifically for nylon. Make sure that you bake / dehydrate it in some way first, then keep it in an airtight container.


I’ve personally had success printing NylonX on a Prusa i3 MK3S, no enclosure, with the stock smooth PEI sheet and no gluestick. Per some tips I found on the internet, I turned the bed temperature all the way up to 105 °C (and 265 °C on the nozzle) and used a very wide brim (20mm). I also made sure to clean the bed well with 90% isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel before the print, and I have a PrintDry dryer as well. I’ve managed to print a few good-sized parts successfully (a mount for a Limelight) but haven’t yet done extensive printing so YMMV.

We got a dehydro food dehydrator from walmart the one for about $36 and took the trays and cut the grids out with some wire cutters, tape the trays together, drill a hole for the filament the thing has been doing its job for over a year now and we have a sheet draped over it and the printer - raises the temp to almost 50 C

we bought it online we 2 extra trays and it now hols 3-4 rolls depending on roll size

When we take a roll (Nylon, TPU, PETG) out of its box/vacu pack we put it at the bottom for at least 12 hours before putting it on top for printing in the middle we have a pipe that holds the rolls in place (printed in hips of course) and the roll that is printing sits on a lazy susan

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I have a printdry as well. I didn’t keep the filament in it while it was running on the printer, but maybe I should have… the humidity down here where we are is always pretty bad.

I’ll try that. Unfortunately the printbed size for this printer is 14" x 14" which means there isn’t a garolite bed I can straight up buy from matterhackers.

I’ll be trying some of these tips tomorrow. Thanks

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I found MagiGoo (the Nylon specific one) works really well even compared to glue stick.

I just was at the ERRF and both Gecko tech and WhamBam claim their current sheet kinda handle it with lots of gluestick and both will come out with one formulated for Nylon soon. WhamBam said they are almost done testing so that might be TradeShow “talk” but there might be hope. Now 14x14 ? you might get an ultrabase plate from a shiron which is almost 16x16 and carefully cut it down or brake it. This one too will do the job with lots of glue. Looks like the current combining thing is lots of glue. Its of the purple water soluable elmers school glue type. Apply it while the plate is cold and give a little extra towards where the edges are going to be.

I’ve got my eye on this PC+CF filament people seem to like: PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate 1KG 1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool, 1.75 mm,Black

Supposedly can be printed by fairly modestly set up printers (just update the Bowden tube to 300 degree F Capricorn & guard against hydrophilic nature of PC). Anyone tried it for FRC?

We’ve been trying to use the purple elmers glue with several layers 4+ and haven’t seen good results. Our plate is just glass at the moment. I’ll look into some of those alternative plates. I’ve also got a support ticket in with Fusion3 and they are going to look over the problems I’ve been having as well. Hopefully I’ll be able to find a good solution.

Sidenote, I hadn’t seen the MagiGoo… and I was searching for nylon specific bed adhesives… of course I didn’t check the Matterhackers website. LOL

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The Priline Pc-carbon is a nice filament. However it is a polycarbonate alloy. It prints fine detail well. we have used for v belt pulleys, servo gear and other parts that had hard to print detail and needed stiffness , strength. It is not as strong as a pure PC carbon. But, then you can actually print it. If you can print petg, you can print this filament.

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Owens Corning has a glass fiber Polycarbonate that I am very interested in trying heres the link

This year we had a fairly large nylon carbon plate that was 3d. Could not be machined with our facilities. We used 3dextech carbonx. 10.7 x 6". It was a tough print. In the past we have had sucess printing smaller items with Elmers school glue on PEI. No luck with this one. What did work. Ordered a .125" G-11 sheet from McMaster-Carr. Sanded a cross hatch pattern in it. Used a .6 hardened steel nozzle. Got rid of the thermistor and used a RTD to hold precise temps. This was on a E3D volcano. Printed .3mm layers at 285c and 100c bed. Took a Amazon box and rigged up an enclosure. The heated bed kept it around 120 to 140F. While 40mm second did work, ended up printing at 30mm sec. Moisture was a problem at first. We had a layer adhesion problem until I got the filament dry. Put in the oven at 165 F over night and then put it right into a vacuum chamber for 2 hours. Dry filament makes a big difference. Could not get the print off the plate. Put it in the freezer for an hour then flexed. Popped off. It did take a major effort to print these but, it was worth it. The plates are amazingly light and have taken a major beating. Still going in the off season. Carbonx has been the hardest to print. Several other carbon nylons are easier. But not as tough. Nylon is a class of molecules. Pa6, Pa66, pa12. All are different and the filament manufactures are constantly playing with blend and additives for better printing. Maybe they will find a formulation for easier printing in the future. You can get almost the same mechanical properties as nylon carbon with PETG carbon. We have used 3dextech version in the past with good success. Very easy to print. Same with Priline PC-carbon. (it’s an alloy). Going forward we are working on getting all these filament dialed in and quantified so we can choose the best for each part.

The only other things to try then (I never tried them with Nylon on glass as I don’t have a glass plate) is Hair spray (aquanet unscented) and Blue painters tape with bloc-it (don’t use the cheap or white one without it)

The only othere one I also never tried cause I did not have to is capton tape or any other PA tape as that is Nylon and nylon will stick to nylon

Not NylonX, but we use regular elmers purple glue sticks on our MarkForged Onyx One bed and we have one lever had one part come loose mid-print (more then 75% of the part started on support material, and I think a light amount of glue was applied).

I think the enclosure for keeping the ambient temperature goes a long way. I know this isn’t the exact same material, but NylonX is probably the closest thing out there to Onyx.

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The Onyx one doesn’t have a heated bed… or does it? What temp did you run if it was heated?

Markforged filament printers do not have a heated print bed. It’s a composite of some sort:

The rudimentary enclosure on the Mark Two I use does retain heat in the printer. If I leave it open while printing the lab gets noticeably warmer.

They also ship with a pelican case based drybox. It’s got a spool holder inside, and a push-in air fitting much like FRC uses, but smaller diameter. From the drybox to the filament feed is a bowden-like tube further keeping humidity out. I’ve had plenty of spools of onyx go bad with only a little bit of moisture.

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^Second everything said here.

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