Problems with CNC Cutting Aluminum

Hey guys, we’re having some major difficulties with cutting aluminum on our CNC, and we’re hoping we could receive some advice on how to fix our problem.

Recently, when we try to cut aluminum on our CNC, the chips don’t really fly away, and instead bunch up, causing them to get in the way of the end mill during future passes. This especially happens during pocketing and profiling operations. We call this “melted butter”

We’ve tried a few feeds and speeds combinations, but here’s what we have right now:

-4mm 1 flute end mill (from thriftybot)
-20k rpm spindle speed
-20 ipm cutting feedrate
-0.03 inch pass depth
-Aluminum 6061 (normally either 1/4" or 1/8" thick)

Notably, we don’t have a constant stream of coolant shooting at the end mill; we only have an air hose that somewhat helps with cooling and chip removal. The melted butter constantly gets in the way of the end mills during passes and sometimes breaks the end mill.

Can anyone help us solve our problem? If any more details are necessary, I’d be more than happy to provide any information. Thanks!

Cutter is dull.

Replace cutter. Run .06-.10 DOC and Yolo it.

Edit: I run the same .001ipt all day and half the night without coolant or lubricant, only air, and go up to tool diameter in DOC, all on a floppier machine than you have.

I made the first few thousand grasshopper nuts with one 4mm TTB bit going full depth in the .09 5052 h32 aluminum with just air.

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Don’t think of the air hose as providing “cooling” (it isn’t doing so in any meaningful way).

Do think of it as providing chip removal [in addition to the geometry of the cutter]. Accordingly, don’t position it in the next room over like in the photo, but instead position it much closer to the bit [and maybe more downward-directed] to help it blast the chips out.

That’s a fair depth of cut for slotting on a machine of that class. I would be inclined to try a lower DoC and a higher feed rate to try to get a chip rather than dust.

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We had the same problem with the same bit this weekend, but solved it completely with a squirt bottle of Isopropyl and soap. We’re running 22000RPM 60ipm .060”doc.

Are you using any cutting fluid?
Are you using 6063 aluminum? That type is known to gum up more compared to 6061

I am not an expert but know enough to be dangerous and have had exactly this problem when we started trying aluminum.

We just got a CNC this year (MillRight PowerRoute Plus) that is capable of doing aluminum. We are also fortunate to have a mentor who is a CNC programmer so he really helped dial in our feeds and speeds. The 1 flute that you have should work. We use a 3-flute uncoated carbide bit for aluminum (4mm Shank Carbide End Mills for Aluminum Cutting, 3 Flutes, Highly Polished Upcut Spiral Aluminum Router Bit. Plunging Application, Applicable for Various Types of Aluminum Extra Long: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific) and a 1-flute (O-flute) for polycarb and HDPE. 4mm is definitely the most useful for most work we do and much less likely to break than a 1/8". Anything bigger then 4mm doesn’t work for a lot of the holes we want to make/bore.

I think from the look of your metal you have too fast of a spindle speed and too slow of a feed speed. Depth of 0.03 should be fine but sometimes we step back to 0.025. Our feed with that exact bit works at 32 or 36 ipm with 10,000 RPM. I think you are melting the aluminum and it will get stuck in the flute or make this mess.

The other thing to check and double check is the bit in the collet. We had replaced a bit and right away all aluminum cuts looked just like yours – found out the collet was not fully seated in the spindle and that the bit was not perfectly straight. A little wobble makes a mess.

We have a coolant tank in addition to the air nozzle just like yours that help a lot. For $99 (and a compressor) this works great. Coolant Lubrication Spray System, Self-priming Micro-mist Machine for Air Pipe CNC Lathe Milling Drill Machine - Amazon.com. We have some water soluble lubricant that mixes 10:1 in water but I don’t remember what it is called. Something like this should work. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00063933?srsltid=AfmBOoogQgm6vksw9QGaX_JcK8m4zCVhpd1-1CLNfC_6sEsI__xHcL7pgpA&gQT=1.

Alternatively use a small amount of WD-40. That work very very well but is harder to clean up. Put some at the tip every few seconds until you get a channel then when you get a channel, put some ahead of the cut and vacuum clear behind it. Even if you don’t get chips flying, this slurry will make your cuts clean. Before we got the mister/air WD-40 worked very well and we still use that if we are making a deep 2D contour where the sprayer just can’t get into the slot. We just carved out a complex 3x11" long piece from 5/8" thick plate with a 4mm bit on Friday using mostly WD40 in front of the bit and vacuum behind–took 90 minutes but was beautiful.

Feel free to message me directly if you want or add more discussion questions here.

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It looks like a worn out cutter to me also.

Personally I have had much better luck with the Upcut Single Flute Solid Carbide End Mill 1/4" Diamond Carbon than any other endmills. They seem to last longer and can take more of a thrashing. I would also up your depth of cut.

These are the settings I used this weekend:
1/4 single flute
0.080" depth of cut
17k rpm spindle speed

Looks like you’re running an Omio (or something similar)? Your RPM looks good but you might want to increase your feedrate (somewhere between 50-60ipm) and decrease your depth of cut. Better to take a bunch of shallow cuts quickly when your working at those RPMs and a small endmill.

We’ve used some feeds and speeds that someone posted in an Omio thread a while back, but even with those we have issues cutting aluminum with anything smaller than a 1/4" endmill to the point where we try to avoid it if at all possible.

We don’t even run our 1/4" endmills this deep. If we tried this on a 1/8" endmill it would snap immediately, even if it was brand new.

This. We have cut 14 robots worth of parts since getting a router without a drop of coolant or a cold air gun.

Sharp cutters

6061-T6
4mm O-Flute, 14000 RPM, 25ipm feed, 12ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 4mm max DoC
6mm O-Flute, 14000 RPM, 40ipm feed, 20ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 6mm max DoC
10mm O-Flute, 14000 RPM, 60ipm feed, 30ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 10mm max DoC

Polycarbonate
4mm O-Flute, 16000 RPM, 40ipm feed, 20ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 4mm max DoC
6mm O-Flute, 16000 RPM, 64ipm feed, 32ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 6mm max DoC
10mm O-Flute, 16000 RPM, 94ipm feed, 47ipm plunge, 40% stepover, 10mm max DoC

When we have broken an endmill, by far the most common cause was the tool slipping in the collet, causing us to go over 1x DoC and it snapping off. Running slower doesn’t always mean you will have longer tool life. There’s less material removal so the tool ends up rubbing and building up heat in the tool itself rather than in the chips.

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Run faster. Go 60-70 IPM. With a 30 thou depth of cut it’ll be barely any load on the tool. Hear builds up the longer the tool is in the area - the heat can’t build up if the tool isn’t in the area for long.

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You have too much stickout, too much flute length, or both. Or something really wonky with your spindle. Whatever it is, I strongly encourage you to diagnose it properly, you will make that machine dramatically more productive.

Cutting shallow passes wears just one small fraction of the tool. Cutting .06 instead of .03 will double how much material that tool gets through in its life. Going .12 quadruples it.

Going full DOC (thru the material) ensures you never recut chips, avoiding the most problematic part of routing aluminum.

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You definitely want to keep from recutting chips. In addition to air on the cutter, I use either a chop vac and or a hand held air nozzle to keep the table clear. especially on longer cuts.

Just keep clear of the over travel limit switches.

One other thing I just noticed from the OP:

Looks like you either have a tool slippage problem, or are cutting way too far through the stock into the spoil. We typically only cut .010-.015" through the bottom of our stock. That spoil material is still being cut by the end mill, so excessive cut through can clog the flutes with MDF before if even gets a chance to evacuate the aluminum. Using coolant can also cause the MDF to turn into a sticky paste in your flutes, making chip extraction even more challenging.

We’re using these endmills:

We always mount them in the collet up to the start of the flutes.

Just to point something out, single flute doesn’t mean it’s O-Flute. O-flute is a specific type of cutter geometry.

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thanks for the replies everyone - i think this has been a recent development, at least when i was running this machine a few years ago we didn’t see any of these issues. has anyone else used thirftybot endmills recently and gotten decreased performance out of them? they were my go to but i’ve observed that they’ve been wearing faster than i remember.

  1. Use decent quality End Mill - Up Cut, coated.
  2. I would run it dry, but increase your air evacuation if you can. The Up Cut End Mill would force the chip to come out. You should see chips like tiny little rice grain. You would leave a little burr up top, so run secondary chamfering to clean up.
  3. What was your Width of Cut? Try to get .001"-.002" chip load.
  4. Better clamping. Use mechanical clamping if you can.

Its doable to cut good aluminum with router.

Too much flute.

The 1/8in bit, with 0.86in flutes (22mm), is about 8% as stiff as a 4mm diameter x 12mm flute TTB bit.

It is about 2.5% as stiff as an 1/8in x 1/4in flute bit from McMaster: 3317A21 (pretty sure this is Onsrund brand).

I have used those same bits from Amazon. They are no good for aluminum simply because they are not rigid enough. Try TTB bits if you have metric collets. Some options from Amazon in English sizes that I have liked include:

(These do okay in aluminum, but not as good as a TTB 4mm bit or the 1/4 DOC Onsrund but)