Reimaging the cRIO - Help!

Technical NI LabVIEW
#21

Okay, still no movement from the joysticks… :frowning:
We’re starting to worry that we’ve missed something really basic. We’ve been reading/watching various tutorials but haven’t stumbled across any solutions yet.

Following everything we’re reading about the test function and no response.

  • Are we correct that we can pull up default code, input our IP address, change jaguars to talons and download? Or is there something else critical that needs to happen?

  • All updates are installed on the computer

  • The cRIO is now imaged

  • The talons are still fast blinking orange on one and red/orange alternating fast blinks on the other. We attempted to calibrate and didn’t observe any change (it didn’t give the red error or green success, just kept with the fast blinking).

  • The test mode lets us see that it is measuring joystick movement, just the robot doesn’t respond…

Again, thanks so much for any advice and input!

#22

Greetings,
We ran into this same problem last night. Try flipping your PWM’s in your controller. Your issues may not be in code, but physical. If the PWMs are in backward you will be the symptoms you are describing

#23

That suggests a power or wiring problem. Alternating red and orange is not normal behavior for a Talon.

Can you tell us exactly what is connected to your Digital Sidecar, and where each wire from it goes? Photographs of your wiring would be useful, including the LEDs if possible.

#24

The [/url shows that red/orange is a fault.

Talon SR – The Talon SR has an additional LED state that blinks
red/orange when a fault state is detected. A fault can be caused by
one of three things; under voltage (< 3.3V DC), over temperature
(>170 degrees C) or a shorted output transistor. During a fault the
output of the Talon is disabled until the fault condition is no longer
present.

The fault is likely internal to the Talon, or it could have been induced by miswiring. I would disconnect that Talon, at least until you get your issues resolved with the other Talon.](http://www.crosstheroadelectronics.com/Talon.html)

#25

Update. In an effort to determine if the issue was the talon, we swapped the talons for jags. The jag LEDs were orange and blinking slowly. We changed the code from talons to jaguars, downloaded, enabled the robot in teleoperated and the motors “twitched” then stopped responding entirely, we tried test mode and disabling/enabling powering off/powering on and then our LEDs on the jags went off entirely. At that point our battery was low and it was time to leave for the day…
Next plan is try everything as is with a fully charged battery but …
Suggestions after that?
Attached is the picture of current wiring. It’s messy still and we’re working on cleaning it up, but hopefully you can follow the wires. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386261677.552464.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386261677.552464.jpg


ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386261677.552464.jpg

#26

Where did you get your (what look to be) all black PWM cables?
Did you purchase them or make them yourself?
I can’t see how they are marked to identify which of the three wires is the signal, and which is the ground wire. Getting those mixed up as wilsonmw04 suggested will of course prevent the Jags from getting the command signal.

If the Jags have an orange blinking light (after your battery is recharged), then the power to the jags is fine, and the trouble is likely in the chain of command.

  • Code must Open PWM 1 and PWM 2 (this will be proven just by PWM1 and PWM 2 showing up in test mode) Make sure they are not Opened more than once.
  • The Driver Station must be Enabled of course
  • The 37-pin ribbon cable from the cRIO module to the Digital Sidecar must be secure and correct. Sometimes a potential source of trouble.
  • The Digital Sidecar must be receiving 12v power from the Power Distribution Board and the three green power lights on the Sidecar must be bright green (it appears to be so wired from the photo)
  • You can test the Sidecar PWM pins with a multimeter to see that the outer two are providing a signal. Neutral will give a reading of ~1.5v, and full power in test mode will read about 2.3v on a multimeter.
  • The PWM cable must be correctly oriented to get the command signal from the Sidecar to the correct Jag pin. Signal pin is towards the side edge of the Jag. At the Sidecar the Signal pin is the inside pin.
    *]The PWM cable could be faulty. You can test the Jag end of the PWM cable with a multimeter to be sure the outer two pins are providing some signal. Same voltages as before.
#27

Thanks! This gives us some things to test! We’ll see if we can find the issue… PWM cables are AndyMark, there’s an all black outer casing but the very ends have the black, white, red exposed but we’ll double check those and measure voltages… Thank you!

#28

I’m willing to do a Skype session, sometimes seeing and interactive is the quickest way to get things going. I just saw this now, so if you are still having trouble and want to try this, PM me…

Good luck!

#29