Also FYI, for the socket heads that have already stripped, often you can tap in a torx bit to the rounded hole and get enough grip to get it out. It may be semi sacrificial to the torx driver but it is usually way less expensive than the thing you are trying to fix.
This is a great technique, I was about to suggest it.
Definitely as a last resort, as it will ruin the torx bit.
We were actually using Bondhus wrenches, and still managed to strip both the allen and bolt heads.
I took a few apart with no issues using a WIHA driver and handle. You can take a soldering iron to it, hold it onto the screw for a bit and that usually does the a trick with loosing the locktite.
We had the same issue last weekend before posting here and receiving a guide from Rev on Monday. The key words are “high quality”. We were finally able to get the screws out easily with a 1.5mm Bondhus hex key.
Yes, there’s a brief moment between beginning to turn the wrench and it breaking free in which you may want to utter a silent prayer, but it should come loose without too much trouble.
I would try the torx bit technique to get the screw out.
Be sure to order some replacement screws so you don’t reuse bad screws.
Press Fit Guide has been updated:
It might be useful to add the screw size to your press fit guide in case they get damaged on removal.
Do you recommend a reamed diameter for the gear or just as delivered for your friendly gear suppler. (I class both Vex and AndyMark as friendly gear suppliers) Otherwise thanks for the documentation.
They should give the part number of the replacement screw too.
Not that I encourage disassembly without better understanding the game-legality, but… I’ve used acetone as a solvent to remove Loctite. That was in an all metal assembly, though, so you’d want to be careful that parts on the NEO aren’t also soluble in acetone.
Team 1629 just had a similar need, with the same effect… stripped heads.
In our case the small plastic connector had gotten stripped off the end of the encoder cable, and we were trying to determine if this cable was replaceable (with an internal connector), or whether we needed to purchase an entire new motor. We used a new driver (define “Quality”) and got one screw out, but the next one refused to move.
I now see that REV sells cable extensions so we can do surgery on the cable end and solder on a new connector.
Given that this cable is so vulnerable, it would be nice to be able to replace it without requiring surgery.
If the contacts are in good condition and only the body of the connector is damaged, consider getting a replacement body and stuff it with the existing terminated wires.
Check out Section 2.3 the sparkMAX manual.
The contacts for the jst connectors are really really small - pwm contacts look really big in comparison! The crimp tool works well for terminating the wires.
I would not solder these contacts, but then I am a fan of crimped terminations.
The wires had been torn out of the connector… (and is lost somewhere)
I was planning to trim the wires, and then soldering a new pigtail onto the trimed wires. (I’d make the pigtail from an extension cable).
So, not soldering the connector, just splicing wires.
Can you cite the year / rule / Q&A question / case? I have never heard of this being disallowed, as long as you don’t modify anything in the process.
Some teams would remove the case of the CIM in order to more easily modify the output shaft, and then reassemble it. I thought it was odd but I could never find a ruling suggesting the act of opening and closing a motor (without deforming any parts you aren’t allowed to modify) was illegal.
So our team bought the $10, REV recommended Allen wrench, and it performed worse than the 49 cent ones that we also got. Not only did it not take a single screw out, but it also almost immediately rounded. While we were researching how to remove red Locktite, we came across a page on the Henkel adhesives site saying that red shouldn’t be used on a bolt smaller than 1/4. here. While it’s too late to unred our motors, I would strongly encourage REV to move to green or purple, as recommended here, also by Henkel (the owner of Loctite).
Check your CD inbox for some instructions on this.
I took the casing off with a cheap 1.5 allen wrench from a harbor freight set and had no issues, apply pressure and take your time.
We got 9 of 12 screws removed from 4 motors. We stripped the other 3. I think the Loctite is excessive for the size of screws. Also, is it needed just to secure a case? It seems a little overkill.
Anyway, does anyone know where we can get replacement screws? I couldn’t find anything on REV’s site.
It was higher up in the thread