I figured out how to wire the RSL from the diagrams. My question is, what do I graft onto the end of it so that it can plug into the Digital Side Car? I saw someone mentioned “a two pin connector found in the kit”. Can anyone explain what this looks like in more detail? I found a few WAGO connectors and stuff, and some jumpers for the servos. Did I miss it?
You might have missed it…we took them out of the original package they were in, but I believe they were in a seperate plastic bag by themselves. It should be a gray wire with a red and white wire coming out of the end attached to a black casing for the pins, similar to a PWM black plug (casing, not sure of the word)
Hmm. I will go down there and look around for that. Thanks!
In this photo of the Control System parts: http://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/img/66e/66eb8e4215b6671771865055d504b545_l.jpg
They are the coiled grey cables all the way to the bottom right.
They have 2-pin connectors at either end. Cutting them in half gets us two connections.
I’m not sure if the GDC misinterpreted the question posted here, or if they really want the RSL to use 18 awg wire. If so, the provided wire with 2 pin connector would be much too small.
I was thinking the same thing as Joe. I tried to strip the little red and white wires in that set, and they were too small for the 22 gauge hole. So they must be pretty small.
I was looking at these things on All Electronics. I need to go measure the distance between the pins I guess. Some of these use 18 gauge wire and some use 22 gauge.
Maybe something like that will get the job done? I’m sure not a lot of people put much thought into the signal light yet, but I wanted mess with it, and found I didn’t know how to make the wiring connections…
We built our own cable for the signal light with heavier gauge wire and haven’t used the ones that came in the KOP.
I don’t think that Q&A answered the RSL wiring question, since the RSL is wired to the Digital Sidecar and not a 20amp breaker circuit it’s a unique connection. Somewhat on the order of what’s the minimum gauge required for the PWM servo wire that comes off the PWM’s, DIO, Relays and I2C header pins.
Needs to be asked again I suppose.
Mark,
If I may ask… what did you put on the far end of this cable to plug into the sidecar? I was thinking about just a two-pin connector, like the ones I lined above. You feel that is sufficient? Where did you find whatever you grafted onto the end, to accept the two male pins protruding from the side car?
I cut & pasted this out of a team document, so the formatting may be a little strange.
We usually get these supplies from Jameco.
**.1” header supplies **
For making your own 2 & 3-pin PWM cables, as well as, Driver Station pin connections
Jameco catalog page: http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/catalogs/c291/P64.pdf
*50’ 3-color servo wire, 22 gauge *
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=396279
*2-pin Housing – 100812 (as of 1/14/09)
*http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=100812
(Note the photo is generic and not for 2-pins)
*3-pin Housing – 157383 (as of 1/14/09)
*http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=157383
(Note the photo is generic and not for 3-pins)
*Male pin – 145358 (as of 1/14/09)
*http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=145358
*Female pin – 100766 (as of 1/14/09)
*http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=100766
*Crimper - 159266
*http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?jameco_page=42&langId=-1&productId=159266
This might be a little off topic, but the robot signal light has just been uploaded to www.3dcontentcentral.com. So, if you use Solidworks you can now add it to your designs.
http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/Download-Model.aspx?catalogid=171&id=13657
The connector used to connect audio from an internal CD to a motherboard is the same as the PWM male end but just 2 wire.
Thanks Mark. I ordered a few things from that Jameco website. That’s about exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for sharing.
I guess I had my students do this wrong. We just used a regular PWM cable and only plugged in the two wires that were active on that cable. There is plenty of room for one end to hang off the front of the connector on the board. :o
The LED works correctly but I don’t know what the inspectors will say if they even catch it. I’ll see what it takes to use the grey wires before having them fix something that works already.
I think that’s a simple and valid solution.
http://decibel.ni.com/content/docs/DOC-3120
For anyone interested, there is a new doc on NI’s website that describes the various RSL states and their meaning.
Russ
Another good source for making these cables I found a few years ago on CD was http://www.hansenhobbies.com/
Read the Connectors pdf file for everything you could want to know about how to make these. They also have a Crimping Video which demonstrates the process. It takes patience and practice.
We used a PWM cable too, seems like the easy solution. Especially if you’re kind of late getting around to connecting the light! (like 2 hours before you put the robot in the crate)
Ok, I need help… the sooner the better!
With the signaling light… ours wasn’t in the KOP, and no one noticed until now…
Is last years usable?
If I remember right the RSL was in a small white box in the tote along with all the other electronics components. Check again, this was on the list of components that you should have checked when you got the KOP.
Last year’s light may be the same or you could buy a new one using the “additional KOP materials”
-Mike AA
The Allen Bradley light we’ve received in the past is identical and will work just fine.