Not quite sure why our router isn’t working, we only supplied 52 volts to our brand new DAP-1522.
52 volts?!? Ya that would kill it 
First thing to look at is the polarity correct coming off the voltage adapter into the router?
Does it work with the wall plug?
Try to reset it and update the firmware.
That said. we had our new router fail about an hour into our testing and drivers training.
Lucky we we able to put last years router on to keep going.
We had to bag the robot with the old router on it.
After working with Dlink tech support our router was deemed defective. Great thing is that it is under warranty, provided you can supply the proof of purchase. Have a call into FIRST parts to get this resovled but no reply yet. I got an automated reply that they are out of the office till mid week. 
Our router has two led (power and bridge) that come on briefly blue then they all shut off and the power led turns solid red. We can run the firmware update but it doesn’t help.
Good luck, worse case, you can swap it out at your regional spare parts table.
Not sure of any of this helps, but I feel your pain…
Where did you get 52 volts? I know it didn’t come in the Kit of Parts.
Firstly, 52 volts is clearly a typo. I can’t even think of anything that uses or makes 52 volts. Did you mean 5 or 12? Were you supplying power through the WAGO connector on the PD board and the converter?
Secondly, What do you mean “not working”? No lights? No wireless? If it is no wireless, try resetting and reimaging the router.
This was mostly a joke. Unfortunately, it isn’t a typo. Apparently when you wire the power regulator backwards, it supplies 52 volts, instead of 5. We even used a Multi-meter to check it. We also fried our digital sidecar…
Woops.
Last year we fried our camera when the connector was wired up backwards and (tried) to learn our lesson: multi-meter (volts or ohms as appropriate) every connection before making it the first time.
Re proof of purchase for defective router:
After two long phone sessions with tech support we called DLink again but this time Customer Service (NOT tech support). Anyway after yet another session w/ TS (and explaining who we are, what we are about, and why we don’t have a PofP) Customer Service graciously agreed to replace our router without PofP as a “one time courtesy replacement”.
So, if you are willing to spend yet more time on the phone you may be able to obtain a replacement from DLink. Be sure they know you MUST HAVE rev. B1. Also bear in mind that time may be tight. Last time I looked Andymark had Rev. B1 in stock (watch out for the Rev A on their website).
Good luck.
Two related comments on the D-Link router.
It’s really hard to shop around to buy one because most sites that probably have the current model still haven’t updated the photo on their web sites. The only way we could be sure to get the V2 model was to buy through Andy Mark.
The DAP-1522 (either version) will survive accidental application of 12v, as long as the polarity is correct. Unfortunately, 52v was pushing your luck! http://www.chiefdelphi.com/forums/data:image/gif;base64,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
Last year, FIRST posted the proof of purchase so that teams could RMA the radios. I haven’t seen it this year, but I assume it’s something that the FIRST KOP team could give to you.
What does “backwards” mean here? Did you connect the power input wires to the PDB’s dedicated 12-volt output with the wrong polarity? Or did you connect 12 volts to the output wires and plug the input wires into the router? Knowing a little about how the power converter works, I’m having a hard time imagining how any combination of wiring errors could result in 52 volts on it somewhere.
And how does the Digital Sidecar enter into this? It shouldn’t have a connection to the power converter at all.
If you connect the 12 volt line to the output the input will put out ~50 volts](http://i.imgur.com/NmMVPLJ.jpg?1).
lol, how sure are you about a reading from a $3 multimeter?