This blog entry they wrote about the 2011 Minibots was one of the coolest things I’ve seen from a supplier not directly affiliated with FRC.
I guess larger magnet is the answer. I just need to find the right one.
I forgot this existed. Amazing!
If the larger magnet doesn’t work I’d try gluing a dowel or something a little smaller than the top of the magnet then pull.
It might be worth confirming your issue is caused by the magnets rotating in the shaft, particularly if you used any sort of adhesive that is making it hard to remove these. I’d suggest rotating the shaft until the rotation reading is near zero, then marking (with a sharpie) across the end of the magnet and the shaft. If the marks stay lined up after you run and reproduce your original issue, there’s something else going on.
It was not a magnet issue. It was an ID ten 10. I didn’t deploy the 0 encoder values first.
We had a couple more similar encoder problems having nothing to do with the magnets that have effected our SDS MK4 modules.
- we used the Falcon500/TalonFX integrated encoder (after zeroing to the CANCoder) and found that it drifted somewhat with many revolutions. We now just use the CANCoder.
- we had an intermittent wiring fault that dropped power to one CANCoder (what? your students never make bad connections?). Of course the wheel wasn’t pointing correctly after the CANCoder rebooted and the ensuing violence loosened the plastic lock washer and screw holding the spline bore pinion gear. Soon thereafter the washer and screw went through the gears below them with even louder sound effects! (Any suggestions for making the system more robust are appreciated.)
Blue loctite on any bolts. Recommend the kind that comes in a glue stick/lipstick style tube.
Thanks. Loctite® Threadlocker 248® looks like your recommendation. Will a small screw driver still remove the screw or should we change screws to hex-head for a better grip?
Hex for better grip and less stripping out with removal. Read the loctite directions for best practices on application.