Spectrum put together a list of the first $1000 we would spend if we needed to outfit an FRC team with very littler money, starting from scratch.
Blog Post: http://blog.spectrum3847.org/2017/11/spectrums-first-1000.html
Spreadsheet Link: 1000.Spectrum3847.org
What would you change on this list?
First link is missing a colon after “http”
Thanks, fixed, it actually had two "http://"s
Yo Allen!!!
I got one for you - I would like lists for “I’ve got $1000 and I need to spend it now before or after build season because my school says so - what can I get from a single vendor like Vex or AndyMark” lists…
Specifically targeting rookie (1-3 yr) teams who might need to spend money in a hurry.
Here’s my attempt at one for Vex: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1k4QlLTClU9Wmy_u6CZC32nsRYfxkh6KpgforBu-DN0A/edit?usp=sharing
The $120 Sears bandsaw listed there appears to be intended for woodworking. Issues using it for metal?
Something you could argue: Sharpies. Fine point, nothing fancy, but for everything from labeling tools to marking hole locations they’re pretty essential tools.
We own the 10" version that’s $50 more so we had to down grade for this list. The blade that comes with the 10" version will cut aluminum just fine, don’t use it on steel. You could also swap in a fine tooth metal cutting blade without problem. We used to do that on our old Ryobi before we got the new shop.
The 14 tooth/in blade is what comes on the 10" version and I assume the 9" version as well. Similar to this.
That’s an interesting challenge but I think a lot of it depends on what they already have and how they build robots.
Changes I’d make
We counted those as consumables since they have to be replaced. We also didn’t list cutting fluid, grease, etc.
Great list!
I don’t want to derail the thread, but be careful with the belt sander recommendation. We just pulled ours from the shop, as aluminum powder is highly flammable, and the safety precautions recommended by the NFPA and Aluminum Association are much more involved then you’ll likely see in a robot shop. (in general: complete separation of materials, explosion proof vacuum with grounded metal ductwork, mounted outside, 50ft away from people).
This discovery was met with great sadness in our shop, as the sander is very useful at deburring and quick shaping. We’re looking at alternative solutions for deburring using brass wire or fabric wheels on the pedestal grinder, but for now it’s hand files for everyone!
Great list! I hope some rookie teams find this because it seems like it would be a big help.
I would personally add a pair of calipers. It would be a pain to try to file or sand somthing to fit without being able to tell if you’re getting closer.
I’ve been trying to find a cheap pair that I like (the HF ones break way to easily).
I have two pairs in my Amazon cart that I’ll be checking out sometime before build season (one, two)
We use these but $25 would be a big hit to the $1000 budget.
If it’s in the budget a chain breaker could be very useful for properly setting up chain.
It’s on the list already, with the recommendation to get a Dark Soul when they can afford it.
We’ve been using Harbor Freight dial calipers for 2 seasons and had no issues. I’m not going to profess they’re great quality, but if your choices are HF calipers or nothing…get HF calipers.
Digital or analog? I have at least 4 digital ones that are in some state of disrepair, either part of the LCD doesn’t work, or the Battey door is lost and the tape only works so well to hold in the battery or they just don’t turn on even with a new battery. It also could just be really bad luck or abuse.
We have had a similar experience with the HF digital calipers. I have no experience with the dial version though. Might have to give those a try.
We got 2 of each before our rookie year. I highly prefer dials but the digital tends to be easier for students to use. The digitals are mostly dead (combo of dead battery or dead LCD), the dials are still going strong.
That is a great list, Allen
I would highly recommend replacing the HF drill bits with better quality sets from Lowes or Home Depot. They will last longer and cause much less frustration.
Dewalt 21 pc set at Lowes for $24.95
Dewalt 14 pc set at Lowes for $9.98
I would also strongly discourage using non-ratcheting crimpers. Ratcheting crimpers are available for a few dollars more and produce crimps that are far superior in quality and consistency. Get the highest rated one you can afford (not the one from HF). A bad crimp can leave your robot dead on the field and can be difficult to troubleshoot.
ratcheting crimper on Amazon $13.99
ratcheting crimper on Amazon $18.40 with better rating
The all-metal Digital Calipers from HF ($17.99) held up well enough over many years of use in the R&D Department at my previous job.
The Wiss Aviation Snip set has straight, left-handed and right-handed snips for $29.96. The left and right snips give better cuts.
The HF Throatless Shear ($139.99) is a great complement to the Aviation Snips. It will do long cuts much better than the hand held snips. Use one of the 20% off coupons since I have never seen it come on sale.
YAAAS!
I’ve bought 2 of these the past two years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IFI3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I figure if someone is manufacturing by hand (shear, drill, sawing, etc.), if they use a thick, black sharpie, they will be no more accurate than the thickness of the sharpie (i.e., if it’s on the line, it must be good). Therefore, if I force the line to be smaller, I can make them more accurate, at least that’s the thought.