This the second year for my team, we used direct drive last year.
This year however, we’re opting for a chain drive, but we can;t for the life of us figure out how to make the chain smaller!
We’ve tried hammering the pins out with a nail set, sprying them with a scredriver, and a few members are pushing to take a sawzall to the links…
Help is much appreciated!
you can buy a chainbreaker to break the chains. you can get them at mcmaster.com just type in chainbreaker and they’ll show up.
if u can’t get a chain breaker in on time for the ship date, u might try the hammer thing using a drill tap(*i think that’s what they’re called. we used one last year after we misplaced our chain breaker. U might also be able to find a chainbreaker at a bycicle shop if there’s one near u.
You can buy a chain breaker or use a grinder to grind off one side of the chain and push the pin out
We tried a bike chain splitter, but had no luck as the chain didn’t fit it.
Is there any chance a bike store would have the proper chain breaker? If not, I think we’ll just got for the grinding method, as tapping it out has been ridiculously futile thus far.
Thanks!
what size chain are you using? cause chain breakers are not one size fits all, and i think the ones sold at bike stores are larger cause the chain is bigger than the chain on most first bots
Grainger will also have them. I did a search and the closest store is at
31 Cabot Rd
Woburn, MA
(781) 933-9254
I would highly recommend purchasing a chainbreak. Here is a link to Graingers chainbreak http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/1A911
Good luck finding a chainbreak in a brick-and-mortar store. In the Indianapolis area, we’re limited to online stores only. We’ve checked Lowe’s, Menards, Home Depot, Harbor Freight, Harley-Davidson, bike shops, and sporting goods stores. Bike chain tools won’t work on #35 chain.
If you’re purchasing a chainbreak (and I’d recommend getting more than one), it would be worth your while to get a chain puller as well. This tool holds the chain in place while you work on it.
We’re just using the chain that came in the KOP, I forget exactly what the pitch is, but is not 1/2"
it’s #35 chain, just to let u know
chain breakers there…you can have them next day aired to your place
Hob, what you’re looking for is McMaster part number 6051K15. If you haven’t used McMaster before, you’ll be amazed at how excellent their customer service is. If you order it by 4pm today, you’ll definitely have it by Friday, and maybe even tomorrow.
If you want to try without a chain breaker, you’ll want a heavy vise and a punch that’s a bit smaller than the pins in the chain. Open the vise so it’s slightly wider than the pins, then have someone hold the ends so they don’t turn the chain. It only takes a few strong hits to get the pin to move, and it’s easier once the top is below the surface of the link. We’ve never had a chain breaker, and it’s always worked for us.
We got our chain breaker from Lowe’s last year. They also have #35 chain and master links.
The reason that you can’t hammer it out is a factor of the way the chains are made, the pins are pressed in which causes an expansion of the area on the outside of the pin. In most cases this is a good thing because nobody wants their chains to just fall apart during use.
While I typically support using the correct tool for the job chain breaks are particualrly good if you intend to re-use the pin for a half link or just taking one part of the chain away. Either way you will have a tough time getting the pin all the way out of both the outer and inner links with a break. For that reason I advocate using a dremel tool with a grinding bit.
Take the chain and put it in a vice and just grind the surface of the pin off until you can see marks on the outer link at that point you should be able to remove the pin by tapping it with a punch. If you want the pin completely out repeat this step on the other side and the pin will almost literally fall out. The other good thing about this method is it doesn’t matter what pitch (size) the chain is.
Chain notes: The chain in the kit is #35 or 3/8 pitch. If you need to buy sprockets or more chain asking for either one of these will get you what you want as they are interchangeable terms.
I got a fairly inexpensive chain breaker from MFG Supply http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/32--1733.html
its only 11.95! that is almost 3 times cheaper that grainger, and 10 bucks cheaper than mcmaster
I got master links from MSC (the company that provides the master links in the kit)
If you need an exact product number, PM me and Ill be able to dig for it
they ship really fast too!
We’ve never had a problem using a break. The problem with your method is at the competition you aren’t allowed to grind metal or use any tools that create sparks.
The upside is that you probably will have a much easier time finding a chain breaker at an FRC competition, than you will finding one at a store!
We just purchased the chain detacher from Grainger and it is the same one that they bought at Lowes
I just grind down the pins and a little bit of the link plate on one side on a bench grinder. It’s very easy to tap out with a punch when you are done. If you need to replace chains at the competition, I’d suggest something is amiss with your build, unless you are redesigning on the fly.