Swerve drive specialties mk2 swerve drive chasis design

Technical
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I’m looking to design a chasis (preferably sheet metal design) for the swerve drive special mk2 swerve module. What things should I avoid doing and what should it include? Post pictures of what your team has done. Not opposed to any ideas but sheet metal is easiest for our team so that’s what I would prefer to use.

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I would highly recommend making a simple rectangle chassis out of Versa Frame 2X1. Use 90 degree gussets on the bottom of the chassis. The swerve modules serve as corner gussets on the top of the chassis. Then use your sheet metal fabrication capability to make a nice belly pan.

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Hi Patrick:

We recently purchased some Mk2 swerve modules and were surprised to discover that the main plates are now 1/4-20 threaded for chassis mounting, which also appears on the drawings. However, the CAD model still show a #10 clearance through hole.

What is your current recommended chassis mounting with the new threaded holes? I assume it has to be a 1/4-20 bolt up from below. Your thoughts on a full through bolt (2 1/2 inch) through the bottom gusset, tubing and into the swerve vs. pocketing the bottom of the tubing for access and bolting just to top tubing face?

Also we are considering putting a nylon locking nut of some type on top of swerve plate vs. relying on thread locker.

Any feedback or thoughts welcome… (Units assembly perfectly and we are excited to get them on a chassis!)

Thanks
Mike

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The SDS modules have actually always had 1/4-20 tapped mounting holes. The CAD shows #7 drill, 1/4-20 predrill, 0.201 hole size (which also happens to be a good #10 clearance size). I would recommend drilling access holes on the bottom wall of the frame tubing and using 3/8" length 1/4-20 bolts to attach the modules to the top wall of the frame. Using the shorter screws to attach to the top wall will allow you to tighten the screws without risk of crushing the tubing and will also save a bit of weight when compared to full through bolts. We (2910) use blue threadlocker and have not had any issues with the mounting bolts coming loose, however, I have seen other teams use slightly longer screws and a nylon lock nut on top of the the mounting plate instead of thread locker.

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Awesome info. Thanks for the prompt reply!

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