T4AL Fuse Replacement.

I blew a T4AL/250V fuse. There is a warning in the manual to only replace it with another T4AL fuse. Problem is I can’t find one with that exact name, google didn’t even return anything of use.

Is there some naming scheme for fuses that I’m not aware of? I would greatly appreciate any help in finding a replacement, thankyou ahead of time for any help.

What exactly was this fuse in?
Did it say a manufacturer on it?
Was T4AL the type of fuse?

The fuse was in some audio equipment.

There is no name on the fuse other than T4AL/250V.

There is a sticker next t6o the fuse that said to replace with only another T4AL fuse.

I’m pretty sure the 4A is the amp rating of the fuse. I’ve tried T3AL and T2AL and they also return results(useless) on google. I have no clue what the T & L stand for however.

can you get a photo or scan of the fuse onto this thread, i can try to locate one online or at a local electronics components store if i can see what it looks like and the info that is provided.
~Mike

I went to RadioShack today figuring I’d pick up some 250V 4A slowblow and fast fuses. I knew that it wouldn’t be ‘safe’ to use them but figured it was better than just bypassing the fuse altogether. Once I got home I tooka look at the 250V 4A slowblow fuses, they were marked T4AL. So turns out that I was looking for a common fuse, whgy the manufacturer decided to call it a T4AL and not a 4A slowblow is beyond me. Thanks for all the help though.

I believe they said dont replace it with “auto parts fuses”

As you have figured out by now, the 4A is 4 Amp and the T is for Tme delay. I would still be interested in what equipment this went into and what caused the fuse to blow.

The fuse was in a set of Logitech Z560 speakers. Apparently the failure rate in these is very high, from all the chatter in different forums about them. The replacement fuse blew instantly, so I’d assume there is some problem in the circuitry.

sevisehda,
Sounds like you blew the sub woofer amp. I have heard of a lot of systems doing that due to the high power of the system. Some sound cards do not effectively mute audio during power up and the transient makes it through to the sub and makes max power for a short period of time. This sometimes causes the speaker coil to come right out of the magnet structure. This will usually fry the coil and send a short back to the amp. Hope it’s under warranty.

The problem I’ve heard with these speakers is the satalites going out shortly after people get them. My first set went dead a week after I got them. Returned them to Best Buy, got another set, and been working great the almost 2 years since.

Wetzel