The wires from pneumatic compressor don't fit?

Today my team began making a test board with the new electronics. When we tried to wire the compressor to the pneumatic control module it didn’t fit. The module take 14-16 AWG wire and the compressor’s wires are 12 AWG. Would downgrading to a lower AWG meaning less amperage lessen the effectiveness of the compressor?
Thanks,
Wilder

Over a short-distance there won’t be a significant drop in current.

What compressor are you using that has 12ga wires? Is it a legal compressor?

My first question, exactly.

Yes, the standard compressor has 16 gauge wire.

You feed this board with 18 gauge wire. Anyone see a discrepancy there?

Does anyone feel naked without some sort of additional circuit breaker?

The PCM has circuitry that cuts the compressor off much faster than a circuit breaker when it detects faults.

The connectors on the PCM are designed for use with 16-24ga wires so there is no reason you must supply the PCM with 18ga wire. http://www.crosstheroadelectronics.com/PCM%20User’s%20Guide.pdf However a 20 amp fuse provides proper protection for an 18 ga wire and as long as you keep the total length of the wire less than 5’ (positive and negative combined) you won’t have excessive voltage drop.

I do not have a problem not having multiple circuit protection devices. One at the source is all that is needed for proper circuit protection. I am a little concerned about the use of a fuse instead of a self resetting circuit breaker, however from my understanding the PCM has the capability of shutting off the compressor before it can cause the fuse to blow in normal circumstances so the fuse really only needs to protect the wire between the PDP and PCM.

Actually, I was wondering the same thing at first. The way I got them to fit was make sure you have the stripped part of the wire long enough to actually fit in there correctly,and make sure it’s as straight as possible, like don’t twist the copper just kinda squish it together but don’t twist because it won’t go in correctly. Took me a while, but it works.

We had an extremely hard time getting it in so we used powerpole connectors to get to higher AWG wire.

Everyone,
You should strip the insulation at least 3/8" but not more than 1/2". Twisting the strands insures the best insertion. Press down on the terminal actuator before inserting the wire and push the wire as far as you can. Release the actuator and give a tug test on the wire. It should not pull out. If it easily pulls out, you have not stripped enough insulation. If a lot of copper is showing, you have stripped too much insulation. It you find you have “whiskers” (a wayward strand) remove the wire, re-twist and reinsert the wire.

Since you are likely trying to make a permanent connection between the two pieces of wire, a smaller, less expensive way to make the connection is to use a “butt splice” like the one below. These are also available for other wire sizes. They are also sold at auto part stores. Treat it like other crimp lugs and do a pull test after each crimp.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-16-14-AWG-Blue-Butt-Splice-Wire-Connectors-75-Pack-75-123/202522630

You will really want to inspect each and every connection for the whiskers each time a connection is made since the wires are so close together and a wire to wire short will take down up to two devices. In one of the Beta test videos, the team said that after a few insertions, they found the wire strands starting to “bunch up” making whiskers more likely. Even if the PDP, VRM and PCM protect themselves so they are not damaged, you are without the use of whatever was connected for the rest of the match.

Since the “button” that is pushed is very close to the opening for the wire, one’s fingers may get in the way and the button may end up not being pushed in all the way making it hard to insert the wire properly. It may be an advantageous to use a small screwdriver to push the button in.