Hmm things to watch out for, look for, plan for:
(Some of these have been said, im just going through everything that I can think of that I’ve encountered)
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Set screws (make sure they are tightened)
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electro-mechanical feedback devices are properly calibrated (pots)
I’ve some bad things happen when you forget to tighten a set screw that attached a pot to the shaft; also, if it isn’t calibrated right, I just blame the programmer. (sorry Eric V/Adam B/Mini Taz - and all else I’ve badgered in the past) -
Plastic shavings/metal shavings - they can get into places they aren’t supposed to…like the exhaust valves for solenoids, causing the valve to stick, or get stuck in a position that is undesirable. Metal shavings and motor controllers, or any other electrical device = bad.
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Broken pneumatics connectors, cuts in the line, improperly seated line. try to build systems that use pneumatics that don’t come into contact, or close to coming into contact with the connectors (like our plow for 2002) or you might repeatedly break connectors. Latex tubing and some re-shaping was the fix, but try to prepare, and design for that, while the metal part wont break, the plastic parts are not designed to be used as a bump stop.
5)Plastic chain that is “as” strong as steel chain - we had some weight issues, so we tried to use the plastic chain…not only is this chain very expensive…its also “NOT” as strong…we broke the chain in less than ten seconds. Back to the trusty steel chain. Might be good for some applications, but it couldn’t handle the load of our DT. A more brittle material, constant bumping, or other sharp impacts could cause the chain to fail.
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(Brass) bushing that might not be a perfect fit. Bushings are there for a reason, even with c-clips, if a bushing is aloud to wiggle free, it could cause a lot of damage to the systems it was designed to protect, put a lot of stress on a drive mechanism, or other bad things that could jeopardize the lifespan of a system. Sometimes, it only takes one “event” to kill a system, even if it continues to function, because as time, and the parts wear on. Eventually the system could fail, only takes one initial even to cause a snowball effect.
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Ok, this is for “Master” miller (those of you, who know me, know what im about to say). Yes, brass is a fine material, easy to machine. Now, I would say that I machined about 15 brass shafts, even though I argued for steel…ok, to the point, don’t be afraid to opt for the stronger material even though it might weigh more…just because the time spent repairing said part might out weigh the added weight.
8)Make sure you have assorted hammers/mallets/50 pound sledge…sometimes, in this field, it is necessary for something called percussive maintenance, don’t be afraid to give something a few whacks with the hammer to get it working.you’de be surprised at how fast you can get something done with a hammer, and it is stress relieving.
9)if you have to machine something at competition, and there is a long line, don’t be afraid to strike up a conversation with the lone machinist in the shop trailer…quickly earn his trust…and use the machines…because that’s what I did, and I was out of there before everyone else. if you can machine (been doing it for more than 3 years) and your not afraid to take some initiative, then see if the guy (or gal) will let you, you’ll be done and outta there in no time, and you can make the part the way you want it, without having to draw it out or try to explain what you want.
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tighten tighten tighten - always go over the entire robot, and double check, or re-check and make sure everything that is supposed to be tight, is, so that you don’t have a major system just fall off your robot during a match, or even if the part/system doesn’t fall of the robot, the fact that it isn’t properly constrained can lead to other problems. Damaged the drive mechanism and the such.
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dead batteries, always make sure you have at least 1 batteries fully charged. Also, you should have a millimeter, or you can build a tester designed to just plug into the batteries with the same style connector to quickly check what voltage they are at, which is what we did, works great, and hasn’t let us down yet.
12)think about using Velcro to fasten the batteries to the robot, a 1 inch wide strip on the bottom (or more) a few inched long will hold that batteries upside down. I used a 2 inch wide 6-7 inch long strip on the 2002 robot, had to be Hercules to get the batteries out.
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Make sure all the electrical connections are solid, any loose connections can spell disaster, having a hot wire flopping around with all of your electrics can mean some major work later on. Should always use heat-shrink tubing on the connections so that there is less exposed connections.
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should test the systems in the pit as much as you can, perfecting them, or insuring that they are functioning, don’t be afraid to use white lithium grease (or just wd-40, or whatever you use for lubricating parts) with the drive train, keep the chains lubed, and other rotating parts that might be tight, or stick.
Obviously there are a lot more things, in the past three years I’ve encountered many different challenges, that really run the spectrum, but I’ll save them for another post. (Note: written on only one cup of coffee…so im sorry for any spellin