Perhaps a Q&A question, but…
beside the screwdrivers necessary for whatever type you choose, and drill bits and drivers, and a huge hammer for when frustration gets high :-), you might get by with these -
.carpenters square - things positioned well, work better
.measuring tape
.six-in electronic caliper
.scribe for marking and…
.black magic marker or machinist ink to lay out before cutting
.vice, securely mounted, bigger than 4"
.hacksaw with lots of new blades.
.files
,set of Allen Keys for existing setscrews
.V-block for drilling radially into round things
.weight scale - to check before the end of week 3
.wrench set - open ended types work fine on pneumatics and on nuts if you don’t have a …
.set of nut drivers
.locking jaw pliers in several sizes
.clamps - several sets of several sizes
.wire cutter-crimper (have come in past kits) - the importance of a good crimping cannot be over-emphasized. For stripping, a utility knife is quite often as useful as automatic strippers. AVOID the stamped/riveted cutter-stripper-crimper sold in kits with crimp-on connectors - ‘useless’ doesn’t begin to describe a slightly used pair.
.hand held drill - we have several cordless ones (all at the same voltage - we have 12 V, which means we can test a motor with the drill batteries if needed)
very useful advances are :
drill press - (preferably with a vice, and a cross vice is even better)
band saw - with a “rip fence” and a miter guide
handy, but not essential for rookie teams, items include
lathe
mill
These need someone who’s used them before to be safe, let alone useful. They are expensive, and if the team owns them, they need storage.
A telephone directory, tabbed with pages of suppliers of services (as mentioned elsewhere, now would be a good time to talk to them, see who can work with you, who might sponsor you …)
Using the aluminum extrusion for framing saves time and machining (we’ve used Bosch, others use different manufacturers). It comes with maker-specific corner fasteners and t-nuts for fastening to the sides of the extrusion, Make sure you always have the tightening tools. Always Think Triangles, and don’t be afraid to put some of your screws right into the centre part of the extrusion axially and radially to act as pins (no sideways movement.
Decide on a single size screw for fastening non-extrusion metal - we used #8 - so there is only one screwdriver size (especially important if you use a socket head (Robertson (the square one) is our favourite, but there’s Allen and Torx). Use slot or Phillips if you want scratches and damage around the screws (why does Bob Villa get paid to advertise screw removers for Sears, and they only show slot and Phillips being mangled enough to
require the removers ?)
Naturally, every piece of supplied equipment needs a different size nut or screw, but keep it to a minimum, and paint the fasteners which are not your chosen size, and the tools too, so that between two bouts thoughtfully scheduled two minutes apart, you won’t waste time finding the right one for the job.
Forget not the importance of lockwashers on nearly every screw, and be tempted not by permanent Lock-Tite, lest ye find ye must disassemble, yea that ye must constantly disassemble, a certain connection that was supposed to be final.
Number Two Tool is a space of your own to meet in, to build in, and to test in. Also needed is access to a space with a level hard floor, with height enough to raise the robot, and to allow lobbing of projectiles (a gymnasium is excellent).
Number One tool is money. Getting there isn’t half the fun, but it’s at least as expensive as staying there. Money for “Additional Hardware” is essential. And buy extra material for construction; someone will make a mistake, or some one will decide on a different vision halfway through the build phase …
This is not as complete as it might be, but it could be a start. There are probably any number of White Papers on the subject - explore Chief Delphi’s board and use it as a library.
HYHelps