As most of you have already figured out, the specs for the trailer that FIRST gives you isn’t very user friendly. If anyone has translations that would make it easy to build a mock-up trailer for 1st and 2nd year to build, that would be nice.
Currently we only need the base.
we’re going to attempt to decipher the assembly tonight
I’ll let you know how that goes, and send u some dimensions and anything else that can make it a little easier to understand within a day or two
good luck
We simultaneously found with a TI-83 and a mock up in sketchup that the length of the hexagon’s sides are 16 3/16" long, and that’s all we got today.
Hope that little bit helps.
It sounds like most of you are finding the trailer specs as confusing and misleading as we did. So here is what I have found so far…
First, go to: Competition Manual
Then go to: Official FIRST Drawings
And then to: 2009 Game Specific Drawings
This will take you to a set of drawings for the trailer, it’s parts, the outpost, etc… Once you are there you have to hunt for the drawing you want. To find the trailer size, etc. Look at drawing: GE-09002 You will have to do a liitle math in order to find out that the trailer is 28.5" wide. But I’ve noticed some comments that this is the overall width. NOT TRUE! This is the trailer with NO bumpers.
So, I wanted to know the size of their bumpers… I looked at multiple drawings, did some math, made a few scaled drawings, and wal-la! Their bumpers are… well, that depends on how you inturpet them. Bottom line is, you need to ad 3" for each side (bumpers) Total trailer width is 34.5"
However, if you look closely, and build the trailer and bumpers to their spec’s you will find that you can’t bolt the bumpers to the trailer. The holes will 1/8" off. Their math, drawings, or dimensioning is incorrect.
Sounds like a normal day of trying to put 10 gallon in a 5 gallon bucket! :ahh:
28.5" is the trailer platforms with the 1/4" plywood on either side.
Sorry if I’m wrong. But, what 1/4" plywood? There is a top plate, bottom plate, spacers, and the bumpers bolt directly to this. The bumper backing “plate” is 3/8" white coroplast material (not plywood) and the noodle is 2.5".
Correct me if I am wrong… I am seeking the truth as well.
I need a bigger bucket!
You are looking at draawings that begin GE-9… these are official game pieces. You probably do not want to build tho$e.
Look at the team field drawings. These drawing names begin with TE… They use 1/4" plywood instead of alumalite, 1/2" plywood for the bumper backing, and many other cost saving measures.
They are also wrong. In several places. The wheel axle bolts are at least 1" too short, they don’t use enough screws to hold it together, and the drawings use ordinate dimensioning, which can be confusing. If you read this thread it should help decipher them
Hope this helps,
Martin
Has anyone created a CAD model of the trailer?
About 95% sure on this:
On the team drawings, the spacers are connected to 1/4" plywood, and the noodles are wrapped to that. But thats nitpicking, really. What really matters more is that the centers of the pipes are on a 25" diameter circle, not the tiny space outside the pipes. My team decided that we won’t even bother with the noodles, they don’t effect the driving that much, for us anyway.
AaaahhhGG !!!
Are you kidding? If the drawings are not correct they shouldn’t even be on the site! We should have ONLY the drawings that actually help us. And if there is a revision, the old drawing should be disguarded. I only wasted one day on this!
Thanks for the help, hope I can return the favor soon.
Has anyone seen a bucket?
I understand it’s being nitpicky. But the whole point was to find out the actual size of the trailer and the distance from the outside edge of the bumper to the pipes.
Thanks all… I’m sure we can get it right if we keep digging and working together.
I’m about to kick the bucket! :mad:
I’m definitely not impressed with the trailer instructions. I just spent and entire day building one and will continue tomorrow morning.
For one you’re right, dimensioning is off in a lot of places. For instance: they assume a 2X4 is actually 2" x 4", which has to be the rookiest mistake in carpentry.
Also, there’s no way that just luan + plywood sides is going to withstand a whole season’s worth of practice. It could serve as a nice ornament but it can’t take any kind of beating. They have all the weight resting on flimsy pieces of luan siding (including the wheel wells and very heavy center pipe). I’m going to add 2X4 standoffs in the center of ours to at least give it a chance of surviving until April.
Another thing is that all of the dimensions are very odd such as 57 1/4" or 42 7/8", which tells me someone designed it in CAD and never actually tried building it. No carpenter would sweat 42 7/8" vs 43" on a project like this (mayhaps a cabinet maker).
make a compass out of a scrap piece
in other words,
find the center of the hexagon
take a thin (<1/2") piece of scrap ply, board, lexan, whatever, about a foot and a half long.
measure a tiny amount under 12 1/2" apart on the scrap, drill the holes with ~1/4" bit.
with a pointy thing (awl, something in a multitool, you get the idea), hold the tip through a hole on the center of the hexagon.
using a pencil, draw a circle through the other hole you drilled.
go to the schools drafting class, geometry guru, or somebody that has 45 and 30/60 triangles. Bum one of each off them. Nicely, of course.
try different combinations of the two triangles to achieve a 15 degree angle from the center, from the opposing corners. Continue the line to the corners of the hexagon.
continue by using the 30/60 triangle to add 30 degrees to the line FROM THE CENTER, making sure to mark where these ‘spokes’ intersect the circle.
once you have all 12 intersections clearly marked, use a 1 1/4" hole saw or spade bit to drill the holes. (if you can, use the spade bit in the drill press)(you will probably have to file the holes out afterward)
9 1/5. if you want to drill through both hexagons, line up the edges and clamp them together and do them both at once.
NOTE: the spade bit can kick like a mofo. be careful and have someone watching/ holding the hexagons with gloves