Hey!!!
We opened our USB-Chicklet box, and realized that the IC12 chip is missing. Looking further, we found it in the bottom of our box. Is it safe to turn on the chicklet without it? If not, do you think Crosstheroad would take it back (I don’t like this option… takes too long)…
I cant get the part number from the IC (way too small)…
Thanks for the help,
Jacob
Or perhaps someone in the CT area (Hartford area helpful) could sell us thiers if they are not using it…
Yeah…
So I tried putting the part on myself, which ended up in one of the pins breaking off :eek:
So now the question is, is this part essential, and if it is, what can I use to replace it.
The part number is Z66F. I think, think, that this is a diode pack. its 5 pins, two on one side, three on the other. From where it is positioned, it appears to be a diode pack. It essentially goes from output pins to the joystick port to PIC. Does anyone have a schematic for the chicklet, or maybe info on this mysterious Z66F part? I can’t find anything on the old elgoog engine.
Jacob
IC 12 is not essential. The Chicklet will work without it however you will lose AUX_SWITCH_1. Everything else will function as expected. We will send you one as soon as possible. I am on vacation in Curacau(island off of Venezuala) so I do not get very reliable internet. This is the second time I have had to type this E-mail. I will attempt to contact Tom Watson at IFI and have him overnight you a new one on monday. We will eventually need the defective one back. No hurry however. If you have to ship it with the robot so be it. IC 12 is a digital switch. It is not vital to anything but aux switch 1. If you have any questions contact Tom Watson at IFI ext 204 or Omar at [email protected]. Do not try to repair the board. That part was placed by a machine.
Sweet. I don’t mind losing one switch.
And about the part… Yeah.
I didn’t attempt to solder it back on (that would have been ugly) so I tried to super glue it back on (the leads were still sticking off the IC.) It would have worked, had I placed it right the first time. I missed a little bit, so I had to use some acetone to remove the part (we didn’t have straight up acetone, so I used PVC primer, which contains acetone, but it also purple.) So that part of the board has a purple hue to it (I can post pictures if anyone is interested…
) I then tried this process again. I actually glued it in the right place, I turned it on, everything was cool, but then one of the legs of the IC broke off (must have been bent one to many time… that thing is TINY) Then I tried looking the part up (Z66F… Good luck with that one) with no avail. My hope was to find it was 2 or 4 diodes, something i could just find more of and solder in place. I could never find the part, so I couldn’t do this.
Long story short, thank you Mike and Cross the Road INC. You guys rock. This is a very nifty device, and I’m glad you will replace it. It will be of course no problem to return the board, and the purple stuff can be scraped off (I promise. I almost finished doing this today, but I got caught up in somehting else. I’ll finish tomorrow.)
One suggestion to Cross the Road; Mounting holes. There is no good way to mount your board without using the DB15 connector or drilling out the mounts on the DB15 connector (something I DID NOT do, but starting to wonder if I will on the new one…) The only other way to mount it is using zip ties or glue !?.. It’s a double sided board though, so that wouldn’t be too cool.
Again, thanks for the help,
Jacob
This is perhaps the funniest post I have seen on chief dephi in years.
In my career as an electrical engineer I have analyzed failed circuit boards. We had boards from the assembly line and from returns. I now have a better understanding of how the customer got such a bad board. We never even had any blue stuff in our process.
Thanks Jacob, for the step by step description. I enjoyed every post (along with the time of posting).
After five years building FIRST robots, this is the reason I keep coming back. The mentors provide training and suggestions. The students provide a continuous stream of entertainment. I think that this is a rather good trade.
Jerry w
Sweet. I don’t mind losing one switch.
And about the part… Yeah.
I didn’t attempt to solder it back on (that would have been ugly) so I tried to super glue it back on (the leads were still sticking off the IC.) It would have worked, had I placed it right the first time. I missed a little bit, so I had to use some acetone to remove the part (we didn’t have straight up acetone, so I used PVC primer, which contains acetone, but it also purple.) So that part of the board has a purple hue to it (I can post pictures if anyone is interested… ) I then tried this process again. I actually glued it in the right place, I turned it on, everything was cool, but then one of the legs of the IC broke off (must have been bent one to many time… that thing is TINY) Then I tried looking the part up (Z66F… Good luck with that one) with no avail. My hope was to find it was 2 or 4 diodes, something i could just find more of and solder in place. I could never find the part, so I couldn’t do this.
Long story short, thank you Mike and Cross the Road INC. You guys rock. This is a very nifty device, and I’m glad you will replace it. It will be of course no problem to return the board, and the purple stuff can be scraped off (I promise. I almost finished doing this today, but I got caught up in somehting else. I’ll finish tomorrow.)
Actually the locking threads on the DB15 connector can, and are intended to be used as mounting holes. If you screw a #4-40 screw into each side of the connector while it is pluged into the O/I, it will ensure that the Chicklet will not come disconnected from the O/I. Thank you for your suggestions and good luck this year.
You need to contact Tom at IFI so he can get your ship to address.
Done. Thank you.
Jacob
I, for one, am interested in seeing pictures of this purple-dyed, superglued USB Chicklet.
lol OK… I’ll get to robotics around 11ish… I’ll have to disassemble the OI… That’s OK. I have to add a switch inside anyway to turn off the secondary power. It is actually a really interesting design…
Jacob