van Door motors stalling help

we are currently using a Van door motor to pull the ball up like a forklift, but the motor has to fight the weight of the ball and gravity and when it does it will fight for around 3 seconds then it will give up and we are not able to control it for another 3 seconds.

is this a safety mechanism that would cause the motor to give up (shuts off)? how can we keep our motors fighting the ball’s weight?

You are most likely tripping one of your breakers. They are thermal resetting, so once they cool down they will work again. But that doesn’t solve the problem of what is causing the breakers to trip in the first place.

I would check your math again to see if you have that motor geared correctly so it has enough torque for the application you are trying to use it for.

I believe the van door motor is thermaly protected. Its running under too much load. Find out how many amps it’s drawing when it does run.

I’m not sure if this will help you any, but I might suggest using another motor if at all possible because this year’s van-door motor is alot weaker compared the the van-door motors from the past, we were planning on using it, but we did some crude tests and found it to be far too weak for what we wanted to use it for.

Using this spread sheet I was able to determine that all of the Van Door motors will, simply put, not get the job done in any sort of timely manner (6 seconds was the best I could get):

Go to the Linear Mechanism tab. Put in the motor specs at the top. Common specs for previous years’ motors are on the first tab.

Using this spreadsheet, I was able to determine a 2008 motor, gearbox, and sprocket setup with a large (40%) room for error. The key features we designed for are current draw (which appears to be your problem) and “time to move load”. If you consistently exceed the recommended current draw for a motor, you will eventually burn it out and/or see smoke. Where do you get the “recommended” current draw? Either from the specs or from experience.

Our final conclusion was to use a Banebots RS-550 motor, geared down to give us the lifting force of ~105lbs (way overestimated 35lbs to lift * 3 stage lift) without exceeding the 10A recommended current draw. Our backup plan is the Fischer Price motor.

The window motors are, I’m not sure about the Van Door motors, but more than likely it makes sense.

Btw, Van Door moors are not a dutch motor, they are used on Minivan sliding Doors.

It took me like 2 years to realize that. :yikes: :rolleyes:

oh my!

Ha ha!! Ok… maybe not that long, but when you only hear something, and don’t see it written, it sometimes has a different meaning than what is intended.

I also thought the Vanilla Ice song Ice Ice Baby was talking about the motor in question when he says “light up the stage like a “Van Door””
Apparently… he says “Vandal”…

Who knew? :rolleyes:

Is it possible that you could use a spring to relieve some of the weight on your forklift?

Back when I was in school we had an English teacher with a lisp.

During a test, we were asked what famous award a particular book won.

More than half the class wrote “Poet’s Surprise”.

Of course… the award was the Pulitzer Prize.

The sheets for the Taigene motors on the First website both show what appears to be a thermal breaker in the electrical diagram. Three second reset time would support an internal breaker compared with nearly instant reset on the snap action breakers.

we had this problem as well…switch to the keyang motors, they are very powerful and wont backdrive…we had these connected to a chain running our whole arm (before being cut to its size 55 inches) and a battery on top of it to resemble the weight of the ball plus arm components…it held it in place and was able 2 lift it with slight gearing…(we have 2 motors connected) …good luck!