We decided to buy swerve this year instead of tank drive, HELP!

As an SDS module, we stayed between mk4c or mk4n, we do not know which one is more advantageous. and when I looked at a few topics, it was mentioned that if we buy ctre set (kraken, pigeon and canivore), programming will be easier and more stable. If there is a better combination of modules and electronics, you can say your recommendation.

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Imho your best bet for general usability is probably a MK4c (or mk4i) as the mk4n is somewhat niche as far as its usecase goes. For your first outing with sweve I recommend the L2 gear ratio as its a nice balance between speed and torque.

As far as CTRE goes, if you have the money, go for it, its a world of difference. IMHO the ctre ecosystem is unrivaled in featureset, reliability, or ease of use. Plus you ge the advantage of being able to use the ctre sweve generator tool and phoenix swerve.

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Do we need to buy a phoenix 6 license for the extra advantages you mentioned? l2 gear made sense to us too. we will prefer mk4c because it requires simpler assembly for the chassis.

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Phoenix 6 and the swerve generator can be used fully independently of phoenix pro, phoenix pro just unlockes some nice features like signal syncing, FOC, etc. But its fully optional.

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Also, side note, make shure not to forget regular maintenance like periodic re-greasing, tread/wheel changes (colesons are better performing the nitril tread but dont ware as obviously), and periodic disassembaly/deep cleans and inspections.

I know it sounds obvous but ive seen too many teams replace core module components multiple times per season due to “ware”, even when most components of your module shoud last for years if properly cared for.

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MK4i has been great. That being said I personally think MK4n can be used almost anywhere a MK4i can with more versatility. I also like the mk4i and mk4n since you can mount stuff above the modules with less interference. You also get a slightly lower center of gravity then the top mount modules.

We went CTRE with falcons and now krakens for drive, canivore, pigeon, cancoders. It has worked great. We haven’t used pheonix pro yet but have considered it for trying to push performance. We are also interested in using the kraken powerpole adapter boards so we don’t have to run power to all the cancoders but that would require some modification to raise the drive motor up a little so the molex won’t touch the floor.

for mk4i then you would want to consider l2, l3, or l2+ (we run l2 right now)
for mk4n and mk4c you would want to consider l2 most likely.

Also look into making swerve covers. Lots of debris will make it’s way into the gears and make a mess.

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How should we maintain the swerve and we preferred billet wheels instead of colson wheels, in any case we thought we could just change the thread and maximize the wheel performance.

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Is what you call a defense cover something that covers the swerve module with 3d print? You also said that the mk4i is better than the mk4n, because it can be used in more places. so do you think it is worth buying mk4c or should we stick to mk4i. We have firmly decided to use the ctre ecosystem and we like a few software advantages.

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Poly carb shields also work here.

If you are new to swerve please dont hide them away under a cover and pretend they are a maintenance free item. There will be things you do wrong and regular inspections will allow you to find problems when they are small and not match-ending.

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Column, Center, 0.25" Magnet Encoder (MK3/4/4c/4i/4n) If we want to use a cancoder for the mk4i, do we need to buy this for the encoder magnet, or does it come out of the cancoder box?

Your encoders will come with the necessary magnet

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I meant the mk4n is probably more versatile then mk4i although only a little. Personally I’d still go for mk4n or mk4i not mk4c. Obviously there’s always going to be a use case for any style though.

For swerve covers you can 3d print them. There are many options other teams have made. I’m a fan of the 2056 style. And I linked a recent mk4n design.

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I would add that this somewhat varies depending on the motor you’re using. For instance, if you’re using Krakens in FOC mode, your ratio effectively becomes one level slower compared to other motors, so a higher ratio like an L3 would be more appropriate.

That said, I would agree it’s probably best to avoid L4s the first time out, at those higher levels you start running into all kinds of power-balancing and current limiting issues that even experienced teams struggle with.

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Even though you do take a bit of a speed penalty with L3 krakens, the sheer power draw and torque issues are enough for ne to recommend againced first timers useing it. That said, they def aren’t insurmountable issues (we use krakens in an L3+ config on our near max weight bots).

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l2 option available in mk4i what exactly is the difference between l2+ and l2

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“+” refers to the 16t drive pinion mod. Meaning our L3+ modules have a drive ratio of 5.36:1 instead of the 6.12:1 of the normal L3 ratio

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