Did you make a custom wire harness or something? Seems like this is wireless which isn’t allowed.
I have one for my quadcopter and you can disable the RF module and use just as a USB joystick and windows sees it as a standard joystick
For both years I have been driving, I’ve drove with the Logitech F310s. We use the back triggers for forwards and reverse. The right joystick is for turning, and I didn’t use the left joystick last year.
This year, we kept the forwards/reverse on the triggers, and added a second turning stick on the left joystick. This allows for slow turning, in comparison to the speedy turning on the right stick. It prevents me from accidentally tipping the bot when scaling, and gives me precise control.
Aww, Flightsticks!
We switched to XBox controllers and moved away from tank drive fixed joysticks this season, due to last year’s airship.
Not being able to switch drive team members around the driver station was a huge disadvantage when trying to get gears in blind spots and the feeder station.
Can confirm, this is what we are doing. We set up the config so it emulates the axis setup of a Xbox controller.
We still use a CH Flight stick to this day. Still the best consumer joystick ever made. I bought out a surplus store’s stock of them years ago, and then we went and bought brand new USB ones that you can still get through normal channels.
I would like to add that the last joysticks we bought and used were these guys:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001S0RTU0?ref_=pe_527950_33920250
Three axes (with rudder lockout so they can act like 2-axis sticks), lots of buttons, robustly made, and their principle technology is a hall effect sensor instead of potentiometers. No trimming ever needed, no loss of range due to wear, just smooth and consistent motion. There are also little bits to move around to configure them for right-hand use or left-hand use. If one has their heart set on a joystick, these are awesome, and my favorite joystick that I’ve used in FRC.
We liked them better than the USB CH Fighterstick: https://www.amazon.com/200-571-CH-Products-Fighterstick-USB/dp/B00006B84X/ and a variety of other joysticks that we have used over the years.
Our team uses two Thrustmaster T16000m joysticks for tank drive. They have plenty of buttons on the top for additional functionality, and they have as much precision as any other joysticks I’ve seen. Alongside those, I have a Logitech f310 controller for auxiliary functions. Our layouts change every year depending on our drivers’ preferences and the complexity of our robot. For example, this year the driver has no auxiliary functions on the joystick buttons because he prefers to focus on driving. As the programmer and button operator, I actually find it to be an interesting challenge to set up the controller in such a way that it’s intuitive, fast, and easy to use.
I’ve tried driving with the controller thumbsticks, but I found that that I lost a lot of control over the robot, compared to the greater resolution and range of motion provided by the joysticks. We’re very happy with our control setup and will stick with it for the foreseeable future.
I’ve always found that drivers enjoy the simple Logitech joystick. Some like tank, some like arcade, but it’s usually on that joystick.
For the operator we’ve used custom button panels, joysticks and Xbox controllers. We always come back to the Xbox controller - enough buttons, simple to use, operator can move around. It just works.
We had been using the Logitech F310s since the 2012season for tank style controls. In our tests these had the least deadband around zero.
For the past few years we’ve switched to using an RC car controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WBTBE58
Guts are pulled out, trigger and wheel are wired up as analog channels, and there’s a few discretes wired as well for shifting transmissions.
It’s worked out quite well for us, drivers seem to like it as it helps separate heading from speed controls.
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