Will this pass inspection?

Will this pass inspection if we push the wires hanging off the robot in and close the door on the grey box? If not, what should we do to fix it?

that’s plausible that it should be alright on frame perimeter issues if you fix that but obviously its extremely hard to give a definitive answer from pictures

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Nobody here is going to be able to tell you with certainty whether you will pass inspection. I suggest you print out a copy of the inspection checklist and go through it line by line and make sure you’re in compliance


@Sunny_Leveson @Ryan_Blue im more asking if the wiring job looks reasonable. I know all the wires are the right size and stuff like that, but is it neat enough?

There’s no requirement for neatness in the rules.


I don’t believe “neat” is a requirement to pass inspection. As long as it is safe, you should be fine. However, it is in your team’s best interest to have sturdy wiring that won’t come loose. Smack the robot into stuff a few different ways, and if anything turns off, you have a problem. Make sure you have no loose wires or wires that could be pulled out/chopped off by the articulating stuff.


neatness is not an inspection criteria hard to check wires may delay inspection while the inspector chases things if needed but are ultimately legal if ill advised. so long as it meets the other rules regarding being inside frame perimeter sizing, and the like it can be a ratsnest but a legal ratsnest

I agree with @Ryan_Blue that you should go do your own inspection before going to your first event. I have done that for my teams in the past and the team members knew I would “not let things slide” so they upped their game. They typically zipped right through inspection at their events.

As others have stated, it is too difficult to inspect a robot definitively via a set of photos. I believe you are required to fully insulate your battery terminals though that is not on the Inspection Checklist. It would be good to insulate the breaker terminals too. You might be asked to use flush-cutters to trim off the ends of the cable ties to eliminate sharp edges.

For your own good, I would hope that you have some protective panels. There is a lot of wires and control system parts that are easily damaged by contact with the field or other robots. You may also want to consider how easy or difficult it would be for the red button on your main breaker to be pushed by a game piece or some other robot. The switch next to the main breaker appears vulnerable too. None of the comments in this last paragraph relate to your robot being legal/compliant or not.

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I’m not an RI but I know that bowls of spaghetti are legal… thankfully! From the pictures, your wiring seems to be in good shape and should pass, but throw in the legal jargon about we cannot rule here on CD, it is up to your RI, LRI, blah, blah, blah…
I would be more concerned with the exposed main breaker and other switch on top of the box. Even a near miss could stop you dead in your tracks. Also, your pneumatic pump is very vulnerable. You may want to consider putting a fan on the pump if it runs more than a little each match. It can get very hot!
It is hard to tell from the pics but you might have a frame perimeter violation with your control box.
Other thank that, I think your robot looks great. Very nicely packaged. Good luck!

One thing to note here, is I’d urge you to try and protect your battery cables there at least a little. As things sit (even if you got them “just” inside the frame perimeter to be legal), those battery leads/connection are just begging to be yanked out by a passing robot.


Also, what is the strap over your battery made of? If it’s an elastic material, it may not secure your battery adequately (and I can tell you from deeply embarrassed experience that there are few things more depressing than looking at your dead robot on the field 10 feet from its battery for the last minute of a match).

That’s interesting, It’s positioned that way because I remember reading the breaker was supposed to be left accessible for some reason, but re-reading the rules this doesn’t seem to be the case. Thanks for pointing that out.

It does have to be easily accessible for safety regions but you also want to protected it from easy hits by other robots or game pieces

Gotcha. So if it’s behind Something so that you c an get to it but still have to reach down into something that’s fine?

You have to be able to grab it and it should be visible or marked but things like the andymark case on this is pretty good

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Accessible but protected and labeled. A pieces of polycarb slightly larger than the breaker with a 2-3 finger width hole cut out should be fine.

Looks really nice! A few things I noted in the photos that you might want to take care of to ease the inspection process:

  1. The main power wires on your battery and main breaker need to be insulated. See R607. Looks like a little more electrical tape is in order.

  2. Looks like you already read and followed R811 and did a great job of neatly tucking the relief valve beside the compressor via the required “hard fittings”. Thanks! Are you certain you have “pre-calibrated” the relief pressure to ~125psi? Your RI is going to double check that by shorting your pressure switch and causing the compressor to run above 125psi and “feeling” for the air escaping the relief valve and watching your high pressure gauge. The way you have the vent valve tucked in there looks very close to the hot compressor head. The RI may be hesitant to stick their finger in there and may ask you to rotate that a bit.

  3. You have a few wires and hoses that appear to be hanging outside your FRAME PERIMETER that should be tucked in and zip tied up here and there. Should be a quick and easy fix.

Something that isn’t “illegal” and shouldn’t hold up your inspection sticker but that I noted in the photos. R612 requires that the main breaker be “quickly and safely accessible” which it appears to be. No worries there as it looks like you are clearly following that rule. However, it may be so “accessible” that it is vulnerable to being unintentionally turned off by a game piece or another robot during match play. There is a balance here between “accessible” enough for use as an emergency shutoff (E-Stop) by a human needing to rapidly kill power to a robot in an emergency and “too accessible” such that it is vulnerable to being shut off by a non-human during routine game play. While the main breaker certainly seems to be 100% legal from a rules (R612) and inspection standpoint and should easily pass inspection, you may want to consider some additional shielding around the breaker to prevent accidentally being disabled during a match. A helpful suggestion may be to consider mounting a small piece of ~3" PVC pipe around the breaker to prevent a ball from being able to press the red button but that a human finger can easily reach. It would provide a very good place to apply a “Main Breaker” sticker as well.


You should be able to access it without reaching through moving mechanisms, but it should be protected from game pieces and other robots.

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I second the suggestion to print out the checklist and go through it step-by-step. There are many aspects of it that we simply cannot determine from these photos.

I’d also advise you to reach out to the volunteer coordinator of your local event and ask to be put into touch with your local LRI. LRIs and RIs are often glad to visit you for an unofficial pre-inspection. Other teams in your area will probably have a mentor who has RI experience. None of us want practice day at competition to be the first time you learn of problems with your robot.

From looking at the photos, there are a few points that leap out at me:

  • What is that toggle switch for? It looks to me as if it’s connected to the digital pressure switch ports on the Pneumatics Hub. Is that replacing the digital pressure switch or providing a test override? Either way, I don’t think it would pass. I’m having trouble verifying that your pneumatics system has the requisite components (R805). I cannot find your pressure switch or your stored pressure gauge.
  • It looks to me as if you’re doing PoE on the wrong port on the radio. It should be on the one marked “18-24v POE”, next to the barrel connector. Also, I’m having trouble following the wires, but it looks like you have the PoE connected to the 500mA circuit on the VRM, whereas it should be on the 2A side. R616
  • You don’t appear to have connected your RSL. R709
  • Not an inspection issue, but I recommend against taping over the status lights on your SparkMAX controllers. You’ll want to be able to see them at some point.

Good luck!


Putting guards on your swerve modules is probably a good idea to prevent damage from intakes.